6 pitches.
This route is a couple of 100 feet left of Golden Needles. It starts off a small ledge left of a curving crack/corner feature. At least 3 pitches.
P1. Easy climbing and trend right to a chimney / corner. Up this for a little ways looking for bolts out left (2) leading to easy face climbing and a 2 bolt anchor. (5.10-?). Alternatively, after the easy climbing at the start look for a bolt out right. Clip this and climb right to get established on the face right of the crack / corner. From here, face climbing and a short finger crack (crux) lead to a ledge, Belay is down and left of this. (5.12a)
P2. Follow bolts straight up from the belay. Fun face climbing on knobs. Guidebook says 5.9, perhaps a little harder in a couple of places.
P3. From the belay trend up and left to new bolts. (There is another bolt line straight up from the anchor which is another route and has only a couple of bolts, then run-out on easy ground). Up To Something heads left and then back right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Again, guidebook has this as 5.9, but it felt 5.10 in a couple of spots.
P4 Traverse left along the ledge at the top of P3 for about 60ft and look for bolts heading straight up. A short crack section (gear) gets you to the first bolt. Climb the face and mantle onto a sloping ramp. Follow the ramp leftwards (easy climbing) to a short wide crack. Anchor is at the top of this short crack. Good pitch, a little dirty in places but would clean up (5.11c).
P5. Fun climbing on large knobs get you to a groove with some cracks. Follow the cracks to a ledge with anchors on the left. (5.9).
P6. Follow the bolted arete. Initially climb on its right-side to a sloping stance. From here climb on the left of the arete for a few more bolts and an anchor. A bit dirty from lack of traffic but would clean up (5.11c).
Protection: quickdraws and gear to 3".
Descent: Rappel the route.
P1. Easy climbing and trend right to a chimney / corner. Up this for a little ways looking for bolts out left (2) leading to easy face climbing and a 2 bolt anchor. (5.10-?). Alternatively, after the easy climbing at the start look for a bolt out right. Clip this and climb right to get established on the face right of the crack / corner. From here, face climbing and a short finger crack (crux) lead to a ledge, Belay is down and left of this. (5.12a)
P2. Follow bolts straight up from the belay. Fun face climbing on knobs. Guidebook says 5.9, perhaps a little harder in a couple of places.
P3. From the belay trend up and left to new bolts. (There is another bolt line straight up from the anchor which is another route and has only a couple of bolts, then run-out on easy ground). Up To Something heads left and then back right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Again, guidebook has this as 5.9, but it felt 5.10 in a couple of spots.
P4 Traverse left along the ledge at the top of P3 for about 60ft and look for bolts heading straight up. A short crack section (gear) gets you to the first bolt. Climb the face and mantle onto a sloping ramp. Follow the ramp leftwards (easy climbing) to a short wide crack. Anchor is at the top of this short crack. Good pitch, a little dirty in places but would clean up (5.11c).
P5. Fun climbing on large knobs get you to a groove with some cracks. Follow the cracks to a ledge with anchors on the left. (5.9).
P6. Follow the bolted arete. Initially climb on its right-side to a sloping stance. From here climb on the left of the arete for a few more bolts and an anchor. A bit dirty from lack of traffic but would clean up (5.11c).
Protection: quickdraws and gear to 3".
Descent: Rappel the route.
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Route of Interest
Crimson Cringe
Grade: 5.12a ***
(Cascade Falls)