Restricted Access

Following a fatality, the BMC agreed the following conditions with the landowner - failure to comply with these requirements could result in a complete ban on climbing:

  • No large groups
  • No outdoor education or instructional groups
  • No dogs
  • All climbers must descend on foot - NO abseiling

The North East England Guide provides warning on the stability of the following routes: Pianissimo to Kestrel, Wings, BBC, Crackers and Gone. Many of the routes have steep grassy top outs.

35m, 2 pitches. The route is a variation of several climbs in the vicinity but what a route it produces! Start by belaying at a small tree on the ledge by 'Wings', a few metres left of 'Birdland'. Ascend the wall to a ledge and then traverse rightwards into 'Birdland' and up the steep crack. Then climb up and right to a block and belay shared with 'Wings' (belay). Move right and then up the wall beneath a small roof at the top of the crag. Climb into the alcove and then out onto the lip of the roof and up to finish by a sapling. Be sure to hang from the lip and 'cut loose' to get the full affect of the 90 feet of thin air below your feet, one of the best positions on the crag. The route takes a superb line featuring great climbing and encompassing some 'awesome' positions.

Jake Hampshire, Sam Marks. Alt. leads (crux (top pitch) lead by Jaka Hampshire) 01/Jul/2011.


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Guidebooks for Peak Scar

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Route of Interest
Right-Hand Crack

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Brimham Rocks)

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