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Climbs 33
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 193m a.s.l
Faces S

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Quimera (6c+) at Pego from the new Costa Blanca Rockfax © Alan James

Crag features

This pair of buttresses lies on the outskirts of the town of Pego. The lower wall is very accessible but isn't fantastic for climbing. The upper wall is fifteen minutes from the road, and has much more to offer.

Both of the developed cliffs face just east of south and are in the sun until mid afternoon. The recessed nature of the valley means that they are sheltered from the worst of the weather. The lower cliff dries rapidly, whereas the upper one can suffer from seepage after heavy rain.

Approach notes

The crag lies just to the southwest of the town of Pego in a steep rocky ravine - the Barranc de les Coves. Approach from junction 62 on the AP-7 and turn north on the N332. Follow signs off this towards Pego on the CV-700. The next bit is difficult to describe since the route through town is quite intricate. As you reach the town, go straight on at each of the roundabouts and continue until blocked by a one-way road. Turn left here and drive straight until the way is blocked again. Turn right here, then first left, then right, circumnavigating the short one-way section. Now drive straight on and up the road lined with cypress trees. This is the southwestern side of town. This soon turns into a minor road and just before it crosses a river-bed there is a left turn (signed to the climbing). Follow this for 0.3km then branch left onto a dirt road. This leads in another 0.3km to parking on the left for two or three cars, 20m from the Sector d'Iniciació. The path to the Sector Placa del Sol starts in front of the cliff and rises a short distance then runs along disused terraces for 10 minutes then rises more steeply again to a pleasant flat area at the foot of the face.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Out of print:
Costa Blanca (2005)
Avoid driving through the town! The routes that we did (gradewise pretty easy) all felt very undergraded in comparison to the other 3 trips i've made to the Blanca.
Zoomer - 29/Dec/10
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Climbs at this crag

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