Climbs 59
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces W

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FA of "Thousand Yard Stare" (1100m VS), Pen Bilis, Ceredigion © Dave Williams

Crag features

A great location on the headland just north of Llangrannog, featuring some good climbs on mostly sound hard sandstone. Expect some loose rock especially near the tops. Most routes are worthwhile. Great ones to try are Jim Bowen's Love Child (HS), Frilious (VS), Ghost Machine (E1), Fields of Fire (E1).

There is one stake above Wild Walks Buttress. Narayan Ghale buttress has little in the way of obvious placements to arrange an abseil/belay so take care.

***Please read and adhere to access and restriction notes set out below***

Approach notes

** The headland is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The area is also an SSSI.

There is a formally agreed seasonal restriction on the three routes Sherry Party, Bargain Hunt and Bica Ridge on

Access Advice

A wonderful scenic location on the west Wales coast. The climbing is all traditional and quite adventurous. Climbing here is relatively new and while the owners (the National Trust) welcome climbing on these cliffs it's important to adhere to the agreed access restrictions and access advice to maintain the goodwill that exists. Locations and siting of  belay stakes have been agreed between the BMC, local climbers and the National Trust - please do not add any more stakes here. Please contact the BMC if there is a need for addittional belay stakes.

Currently (January 2015) the only documented route information is in the Climbers's Club North Pembroke guidebook (Penbilis). For Ynys Lochtyn, a download is available from the Climber's Club website

A new guidebook is anticipated in 2015.


Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

  1. Narayan Ghale Buttress:   No climbing on the extreme southern end of the buttress between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting herring gulls. Principally this affects the following rock climbs only: Sherry Party, Bargain Hunt and Bica Ridge. All other climbs further north on Narayan Ghale Buttress - from and including Dead Man Walking - are unaffected by this seasonal restriction.
  2. Ynys Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs south of the Topple Blocks Area on the east side of the island between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting birds. Additionally, climbers are strongly advised to avoid climbing in the Topple Blocks Area itself during this period if their presence causes any unnecessary disturbance to nesting birds on the seasonally restricted cliffs 100 metres to the south.
  3. Pentrwyn Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs between the Ynys Lochtyn low tide scramble descent path and Traeth yr Ynys on the East side of the headland between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting choughs. (To date, this area has not been developed for climbing due to loose rock and cliff instability and for this reason, future development is extremely unlikely. This seasonal restriction is therefore for precautionary purposes only.
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