Rocktype Amphibiolite & S
Alan James on the long alternating grooves of Saltheart (Sev) at Pen Olver © Mike Hutton
A delightful area that has a good collection of routes spanning a broad grade range. The climbs are on good but friable rock, and access to and from them is reasonably straightforward, allowing plenty of climbing time.
All of the cliffs are exposed to the elements. The bases of some of the tidal cliffs will become inaccessible in moderate seas even at low tide.
From Helston, follow the A3083 to Lizard village and park on the large village green in its centre (Donation). From the parking on the village green follow a road east (Beacon Terrace), past the old yellow house that used to be Ann's Famous Pasty Shop (it's on the Green these days) to a right turn signed to 'The Housel Bay Hotel'. Follow signs to the hotel and join the coast path just before the entrance. Once at the coast path, turn left and follow it a short way until 200m before the distinctive white Lloyds' Signal building (you'll be stood by the Black Marconi Hut on your left). Walk out towards the headland on the right, descending into the saddle. As you look right towards the sea, a rock will appear above the grassy saddle, just short of the rocks at its end, immediately turn right, down the grass slope to a rocky ridge on the right (facing out) of a wide gully. Descend the rocky ridge and traverse left (facing out) to a large slabby area, ideal for gearing-up. Do not use other descents as the slopes are very susceptible to erosion.
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