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Climbs 347
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Jim McCormack on the popular Contusion (6c+) Upper Pen Trwyn. © Jack Geldard

Crag features

The Pen Trwyn cliffs form a near 1.5km line of high quality buttresses and sectors, perched proudly above the Marine Drive and offering fine views across Llandudno Bay and the Irish Sea. The climbing is extensive and is a mix of both traditional and sport climbing, the majority being single-pitch and the mid to higher grades.

Upper Pen Trwyn is a good place to seek out some dry climbing if the weather in the mountains is poor, although there is not much scope for climbing when it is actually raining at the crag. Climbing is possible throughout the year although in summer the sunnier sectors can become extremely hot. In winter or during cool periods, the east and north-facing sectors can be windy and/or cold. Seepage is generally not a problem.

Approach notes

On entering Llandudno, head for the sea front from where the curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west are easily viewed. Upper Pen Trwyn is above the Marine Drive, a one-way road that runs around the headland. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate (fee). The Upper Pen Trwyn cliff starts around 100m on from the toll gate. From here, the cliff is fairly continuous for the next mile and it is possible to park very close to each sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Access Advice

The 2nd pitches of Touchstone and Confuse the Aardvark are both banned for public safety reasons.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Birds (Kestrels)  occasionally nest in the hole on the route "Norman's Wisdom" and  it would be wise to avoid that route and the routes immediately either side of it from 1st March to 31st July.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
Here in lies the topo http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Breck%20Road%20area%20topo.pdf
Andrew.Davies - 23/Feb/10
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08
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Climbs at this crag

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