UKC

120m. The obvious and appealing snow gully running the length from bottom to top between the central and right-hand buttresses.
Entry slopes at 45° lead to the start of a narrow goulotte. The next section (approx. 30 m,) will be the steepest and thereafter the most technical of the climb, so a rest or a belay here might be an option.
The goulotte is a fairly narrow section of snow/ice at 60°-70°; right after, in lean conditions, there will be another section of mixed climbing. In such conditions, a small piton (Jan. 24) on the rocks on the right hand side might be useful. If filled in with snow, this section should be more straight-forward and the piton buried.
Exit slopes to the summit at 45°-50°.
Being quartzite, the rock is friable in places and fairly compact in others, with limited opportunities for runners.

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