UKC

300m, 8 pitches. An excellent day out. Regarded as one of the classics of the crag, the route takes a fairly direct line up the center of the face. What it lacks in a strong line it makes up for in quality of climbing and rock. Take 60m double ropes and standard trad rack. Start a few metres right of La Conjura de los Fatos.

P1 (III+): Wander a bit aimlessly up the 'canalizos', with nothing of note for gear, before reaching a bolted belay on the left.
P2 (IV+): A rising traverse on interesting slabby rock, three bolts guide the way.
P3 (IV+): A shorter pitch that ascends directly to a belay just below a small bulge, directly under the right-hand big water-streak.
P4 (IV+): A steeper pitch on big holds goes through the bulge and straight up to a belay. Care with seepage - don't be tempted by drier rock off to the right!
P5 (V+): The angle gets steeper and the climbing a bit more physical. Move up and trend to the left - don't be tempted by the belay just below the crack/corner on the right.
P6 (6a): The crux pitch is steeper but has big holds and is reasonably well protected. Excellent climbing, and the highlight of the route.
P7 (IV): Romp up the slabs with plenty of good gear to belay just below the final corner
P8 (V+): Climb up the corner before breaking out right on good holds, by the first bolt. Ascend the final slabs on slippery rock to a belay right at the very top of the crag. The only pitch with less than perfect rock, take care with teams below.

Descent via abseil. With bolted belays dotting the wall there is no need to follow the route exactly, and it's possible to get down in around 5 abseils.

Andrés Villar, Higinio Giraldo May/1986.

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Route of Interest
Martínez-Somoano

Grade: 6a ***
(Naranjo de Bulnes)

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