A fun and adventurous route, the crux is getting off again. Climbs the sharp arete on the west (seaward) facing side of the pinnacle, 10m right of the original and obvious VS choss corner.
Gain the blunt arete with a difficult pull and follow it past some great technical slab climbing to a small ledge at 10m. Step right under an overlap and turn this on its left side using some good jugs (gold cam). Step right again and turn the next overlap using small crimps to gain a wide crack, before reaching the summit. Find some courage to build a belay and abseil off, and then drive immediately to V12 to replace whatever gear and confidence you left in the abseil,
Gain the blunt arete with a difficult pull and follow it past some great technical slab climbing to a small ledge at 10m. Step right under an overlap and turn this on its left side using some good jugs (gold cam). Step right again and turn the next overlap using small crimps to gain a wide crack, before reaching the summit. Find some courage to build a belay and abseil off, and then drive immediately to V12 to replace whatever gear and confidence you left in the abseil,
L. Benoy, P. Surguy 01/Aug/2024.
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Route of Interest
Main Wall
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)