Penmaen Head is a relatively recent addition to the climbing on North Wales limestone and has proved to be extremely popular. The crag is made up of a number of walls that have been developed to give single-pitch sport climbs, the majority being in the 6th grade. The rock is generally good and the routes well-equipped allowing plenty of mileage to be gained in a short period. Some of the faces are covered with flowstone and these in particular are well worth stopping off to sample either when travelling past on the A55 or as an escape from the poor weather in the mountains. The crag faces just north of west getting all the afternoon and evening sun that is available. It dries quickly and doesn't suffer from any long term seepage. The Penmaenrhos Wall may give some dry climbing in light rain, and is also sheltered making it a good bet if retreating from the wet and windy mountain crags.
You'd think it didn't have to be said but some climbers have been crapping very close to the parking. Please don't!
If coming from the east, leave the A55 at junction 23 (signed 'Llanddulas') and turn immediately right at the roundabout and then immediately left onto the A547 (signed 'Old Colwyn'). Continue uphill for 1.6 miles and park at a large lay-by on the right just over the brow of the hill.
If coming from the west, leave the A55 at junction 22 (signed 'Old Colwyn'). Drive into the town and turn left at the first roundabout onto the A547. Follow this for 1 mile through the town and uphill to a large lay-by on the left just before the brow of the hill.
From the lay-by go through a gap in the wall and down some steps to the crag.