UKC

Climbs 31
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 306m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Phototopo © snowdoniaclimbing

Crag features

Three tiers of quarried walls separated by wide levels covered with heather and low gorse. A pleasant ambiance and great views.

Approach notes

Exit the A55 at junction 15 from the east/junction 14 from the west, and drive into Llanfairfechan. At the crossroads in the village, turn inland and follow the road uphill past a school to the left into Bryn Road. After 200m turn left again into Mount Road and follow this uphill for approx. 1.5km to a left turn just beyond a large house set back from the road (Plas Heulog). Park at the end of the lane where a rough quarry track continues uphill.

Walk back down the lane for 200m to where a footpath leads up past the first house (Newrey Cottage). Follow the footpath to a small stand of pine trees and the North Wales Path. Follow this alongside a stone wall for approx. 150m. Where the path goes through a gap in the wall (signposted Wales Coast Path) instead stay on the uphill side of the wall. After a further 100m, the path splits again, take the right-hand branch and follow it up the hillside into the top level of the quarry (15 mins).

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes goping back tot he 1950'ies.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.
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