UKC Logbook - 'The Jackpot'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

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35m. The Jackpot used to start below a splitter crack forming the left edge of a boot-shaped flake but the flake fell off taking two bolts with it and leaving a groove. The groove has now been climbed as the start of Gone Tomorrow. It also gives access to the upper part of The Jackpot. With this start an amended description would be:

Climb the initial groove of Gone Tomorrow to an easing. Move up and right then follow a diagonal line of good hand holds to the arête. Make an exposed move up to bridge across the void then steeply up the right side of the arete to a ledge. Use a jug in the arête above to regain the left side and continue (sustained and delicate) up the slab and arête to the top. Because it crosses and re-crosses the arête and the upper slab/arête is delicate, care and forethought is needed to avoid rope drag. This now likely to be even more critical as the new start is slightly further left than the old.

FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 08/Sep/2015.

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User	Date		Notes
hbnick	19 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Rebolted and reclimbed now possibly 6c+ A braver man than I would clean and climb the crack to the right which would make a fine direct start to Jackpot - if it stays there long enough1	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Rebolted and reclimbed now possibly 6c+ A braver man than I would clean and climb the crack to the right which would make a fine direct start to Jackpot - if it stays there long enough1
harold walmsley	28 Apr, 2021	Show βeta βeta: There were two bolts on the large flake that fell off. These would need to be replaced to give an equivalent degree of protection for the groove that is left. However there is some remaining loose stuff at the bottom that should probably be tested/removed before rebolting as the state of what is left may determine where the first bolt needs to go and this may impact where subsequent bolts are best placed. I intend to go up with a crowbar in the next week or so to deal with the loose stuff.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There were two bolts on the large flake that fell off. These would need to be replaced to give an equivalent degree of protection for the groove that is left. However there is some remaining loose stuff at the bottom that should probably be tested/removed before rebolting as the state of what is left may determine where the first bolt needs to go and this may impact where subsequent bolts are best placed. I intend to go up with a crowbar in the next week or so to deal with the loose stuff.
ClimbyMcClimbface	31 Mar, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Having heard about the boot falling off but being fine still I went full on into trying this. I'm not sure if the second bolt (between 1 and the double lower off ones) has disappeared with the rockfall??? It looked pretty bold if that was always the way, so I doubt it. If anyone can inform me that would be brill! Shame we couldn't get around it as there's no nearby bolts and it was a little bit of a river on the day. Any info would be fab, potentially needs a new 2nd bolt and it'll be back in I reckon. Tough moves but would be fine with a bolt. Not a chance right now, for me at least.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Having heard about the boot falling off but being fine still I went full on into trying this. I'm not sure if the second bolt (between 1 and the double lower off ones) has disappeared with the rockfall??? It looked pretty bold if that was always the way, so I doubt it. If anyone can inform me that would be brill! Shame we couldn't get around it as there's no nearby bolts and it was a little bit of a river on the day. Any info would be fab, potentially needs a new 2nd bolt and it'll be back in I reckon. Tough moves but would be fine with a bolt. Not a chance right now, for me at least.
hbnick	13 Nov, 2020	Show βeta βeta: The 'Boot Flake' is no more! See Photo. While cleaning a direct line up the arete, I crowbarred off a small flake (500 x 300 x100) wedged across the top of the groove forming the right side of the boot. Turns out it was a keystone holding the full weight of the flake which just slid of the wall - I estimate around 25-30 cubic metres of rock. Scary! I was Hanging high up and a little to the right and had my ropes bagged, but I count myself lucky to have got away with a slight gash on my forearm!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The 'Boot Flake' is no more! See Photo. While cleaning a direct line up the arete, I crowbarred off a small flake (500 x 300 x100) wedged across the top of the groove forming the right side of the boot. Turns out it was a keystone holding the full weight of the flake which just slid of the wall - I estimate around 25-30 cubic metres of rock. Scary! I was Hanging high up and a little to the right and had my ropes bagged, but I count myself lucky to have got away with a slight gash on my forearm!
harold walmsley	14 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: In view of the comments about the difficulty of retrieving gear on lower off, this is what was intended. Above the initial boot crack are two bolts close together. One has a lower-off hanger. This point is easily reached on lower off using rock holds and rope tension (clip a quickdraw to the rope from your second). Once at the bolt pair the idea was to clip in to the two bolts, untie the rope, thread it through the bolt with the rounded lower off hanger and retie still keeping the rope threaded though the top anchors. This bolt will then hold you in line for stripping the last couple of bolts. It worked ok like this for me when equipping the route.
Show beta βeta: In view of the comments about the difficulty of retrieving gear on lower off, this is what was intended. Above the initial boot crack are two bolts close together. One has a lower-off hanger. This point is easily reached on lower off using rock holds and rope tension (clip a quickdraw to the rope from your second). Once at the bolt pair the idea was to clip in to the two bolts, untie the rope, thread it through the bolt with the rounded lower off hanger and retie still keeping the rope threaded though the top anchors. This bolt will then hold you in line for stripping the last couple of bolts. It worked ok like this for me when equipping the route.