UKC Logbook - 'Titleist 4'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

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18m. Start 20m left of Y Garreg Gamp at the top of a vegetated ramp. Single bolt belay. Climb the grey pillar on the right wall of the corner with care, to step right onto a blunt nose above a small overhang. Continue up to a lower off just below the quarry rim.

Nick Buckley Stephen Lamb 15/Jun/2025.

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User	Date		Notes
hbnick	15 Jun	Show βeta βeta: The first of 3 new routes in this area Should make a visit more attractive. A rough path is being beaten out from the block on the quarry edge above LLanfair Groove to the boulders below Delusions of Grandpa. If people use it it might stay open! This route is in a fine position high up in the Quarry, But the rock needs to be treated with respect in the lower half.
Show beta βeta: The first of 3 new routes in this area Should make a visit more attractive. A rough path is being beaten out from the block on the quarry edge above LLanfair Groove to the boulders below Delusions of Grandpa. If people use it it might stay open! This route is in a fine position high up in the Quarry, But the rock needs to be treated with respect in the lower half.