UKC Logbook - 'Whiteway and the Blocks'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

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33m. Start on the nice grey slab to the left of There Must Be Something and climb a vague weakness. Step left and climb the groove cutting through the bulges to the next slab (keep off a wobbly but tenacious flake/block high on the left). Traverse the slab more or less horizontally to a small grass ledge at the foot of a corner. Bridge the corner and carefully use two dodgy-looking blocks (both rope and belayer are well out of the way if either of them goes but they feel firm despite appearances) to gain holds on the left arête. Reach round to a jug. Continue up the right side of the rib for a few moves before traversing round into the groove on the left. Finish easily up this to a lower off on the slab to the right. The rope pulls more easily if you unclip the gear.

FA. Harold Walmsley, Chris Calow 02/Jul/2015.