Climbs 89
Rocktype Diorites
Altitude 107m a.s.l
Faces N

View Stats

Celt (aged 10) on the First Ascent of 'Y Clip Aur' F6a © Sl@te Head

Crag features

Evening sun, easy access, spectacular views across the estuary, interesting inudstrial archaeology and a spread of grades make this venue well worth a visit. The complex of micro-diorite rock faces has been created by quarrying on 5 levels.

The quarry levels generally face to the north and are fairly sheltered from the wind. Some routes take seepage but dry very rapidly in breeze and sun. The rock on most routes is reasonably solid but can shear in blocks.

Approach notes

Exit the A55 at junction 17 and turn towards Conwy on the A547. Cross the railway bridge and turn sharp right into the industrial cul-de-sac closest the hillside; park near the end. Hop over the stile, follow the path westwards for 150m and take a vague leftward branch up through meadow and bracken heading towards the old winding house on the ridge ahead (12mins).

Restricted Access

Reported loose rock on Jefferson Slab

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Last Butt One Level:

Choughs are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minimum. Due to an increase in roosting birds, please avoid climbing during dusk (1hour before sunset). 

Level 3:

A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove

The easier routes on the crag (at least those on the Last Butt One Level)are not well served by the new North Wales Limestone guide where they have generally been downgraded and stripped of their stars. Reference to UKC logbooks (and the first ascentionists write-ups) gives a much better idea of the grade and quality these routes. Perhaps we'll get a new A55 Climbs guidebook which will put everything right?
roger whetton - 31/Aug/15
Main slab is excellent, especially Map of The Problematique (most memorable sport climb once ever done). Thanks a million to all those who put the hard work in. IMPORTANT NOTE: Birdman of Mynfford has degraded to a dangerous degree after the main slab (3/4 of the way up). Huge chunks of rock that could easily be pulled off onto the belayer. Seriously needs cleaning up before it's too late.
Owen240 - 18/Apr/15
Very enjoyable thanks for all the work that's been put in by the climber's who've done the hard work. The approach from the Sychnant Pass makes a day here very pleasant.
jim jones - 03/May/14
Thanks to everyone who has contributed time, effort and money into the new routes. They are all excellent additions and are slowly turning the venue from a slightly obscure footnote into a crag that's well worth visiting. Good work!
Dan Hale - 11/Sep/12
A nice little crag with a good range of mid-level grades. Some of the harder routes feel similar to slate due to the bridging moves and nature of the holds.
Dan Hale - 11/Mar/12
Surprisingly good. Did the right hand 6a, which is well worth it. Then did the "easy" 4 plus to the left, which was not at all straight forward. Good dry rock, close to the road, but cold after a few hours.
Tim Davies - 05/Apr/05
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Sl@te Head and harold walmsley

Loading Notifications...