150m, 5 pitches.
Starts 10m left of the Crettenand-Roduit.
1) 6b+ 40m
Start easily up a poorly protected slab in the corner, to reach the crack proper: 25m of jamming and laybacking past three roofs of increasing difficulty. The last of these leads to a grassy groove, which is bridged to the top. Climb left onto a big ledge - sling belay.
2) 6c+ 25m+10m
Bridge/layback with difficulty up the wide crack (Friend 5) and up to the roof in line with the belay of Crettenand-Roduit. Climb directly up and move left into a perfect hand jamming crack. Follow the crack round to the right and exit to meet the Crettenand-Roduit. Either belay here (bolt) or continue to the right over easy but very loose ground. Belay below a dank-looking corner.
3) 6c 15m
Climb the leftmost crack, with a reachy crux where it narrows, and exit left at the top onto a large grassy ledge.
4) 6b 25m
Climb the corner and then tend leftwards over the poorly protected slab, aiming for the obvious offwidth. Belay on bolts as for Crettenand-Roduit.
5) 6c 30m+15m
Climb the wall on the right of the offwidth, or the crack directly if you're feeling masochistic. There is a good spike to sling and a marginal microcam on the right wall, before you can step up and place a Friend 5 deep in the crack. Then climb the excellent finger/hand crack above to finish. There is a bolted belay well back on the large ledge.
1) 6b+ 40m
Start easily up a poorly protected slab in the corner, to reach the crack proper: 25m of jamming and laybacking past three roofs of increasing difficulty. The last of these leads to a grassy groove, which is bridged to the top. Climb left onto a big ledge - sling belay.
2) 6c+ 25m+10m
Bridge/layback with difficulty up the wide crack (Friend 5) and up to the roof in line with the belay of Crettenand-Roduit. Climb directly up and move left into a perfect hand jamming crack. Follow the crack round to the right and exit to meet the Crettenand-Roduit. Either belay here (bolt) or continue to the right over easy but very loose ground. Belay below a dank-looking corner.
3) 6c 15m
Climb the leftmost crack, with a reachy crux where it narrows, and exit left at the top onto a large grassy ledge.
4) 6b 25m
Climb the corner and then tend leftwards over the poorly protected slab, aiming for the obvious offwidth. Belay on bolts as for Crettenand-Roduit.
5) 6c 30m+15m
Climb the wall on the right of the offwidth, or the crack directly if you're feeling masochistic. There is a good spike to sling and a marginal microcam on the right wall, before you can step up and place a Friend 5 deep in the crack. Then climb the excellent finger/hand crack above to finish. There is a bolted belay well back on the large ledge.
J Parker and L Reynard 12/Jun/2022.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Suncream | 12 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Maybe E3 5c? I don't think there were any 6a moves but plenty of 5c | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Maybe E3 5c? I don't think there were any 6a moves but plenty of 5c |
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Route of Interest
Vento del Nord
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Gole di Gondo)