Climbs 44
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 33m a.s.l
Faces E

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The crux on the first ascent of Beers, Fears & Uni Years © KDhruev

Crag features

Torquays most northerly limestone outcrop - Its a shorter drive to here (from most places) than to almost any other crag in Torbay.

At low tide, the venue is reccomended for the Deadline Face trad routes (HS-E1). But Petit Tor now hosts over 30 deep water solo routes - most of which are best climbed (and safe) at mid-tide - which makes it the best DWS venue in Torquay for routes up to 7a when you dont have a high tide. With a lot of short and friendly routes - many in the lower grades - this is a great place to begin your DWS career. 

Most of the climbs are described in the recent South Devon guidebook, but around 20 new deep water solo routes are more recent and a guide can be found here:

(Some of these on the deadline face probably havn't had a second ascent so be careful with the water depths etc.) 


Petit tor is sandwiched between red rocks of Permian age and it was heavily quarried from the 17th century. The valley and bay to the north was the source of the ornamental 'Petit Tor Marble'. 

Approach notes

Turn off the A379 just north of Babbacombe at a roundabout and park at the end of Petitor Road. Walk through the gate, turn slightly right, and follow a path down through the woods to the edge of the Southern Quarry. From a bench bear left down a continuation for 20 metres before turning right down a smaller path. 

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