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Climbs 290
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

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Ewan sizes up a solo of The Knife © Will Hunt

Crag features

Marvellous bouldering (if you have the head for it) on vertical faces up to 50ft (but down to 10ft too). Holds usually well-chalked but toprope recommended for longer ones. Do extend the belay if you use one to avoid eroding the rock. 

USING THE NEW BOLTS

Unitied Utilities and local climber shave now negoatited new access arrangements. The tops have now been blocked off and access is via easy routes opposite pisa wall or in the corner of the web wall. United have asked climbers not to use the railing any more for belays, and an aggreement to use bolts has been drawn up. PLEASE USE THESE. When using them please extend out and down from the lip of the wall see links to pictures, please don't run the rope over the rope lip.


Locals think it the best bouldering venue in the country. Walls face all aspects. The rock is usually of good quality and not given to large holds; climbing here breeds strong fingers! Routes are usually soloed or top roped. Although a resurgence in leading the routes has occurred in recent years. If you are going to lead remember that sandstone is soft and gear can blow, damaging holds and routes.
The quarry does get a little damp in the winter, though some areas remain unaffected and others dry quickly, allowing year-round climbing by the dedicated and addicted. Midges and mosquitoes can be distracting on humid, windless summer nights.
Grades go from 3a to 7a (English), with lots to play on in the 5a - 6b range. The grades here reflect those negotiated for the new definitive guide. V grades kind of stop when things get high and leading becomes a possibility. These grades are for in the main; Head Point Leads. If you are lucky to meet one of the locals whilst you are there who goes by the name of 'Buzz', you will have the benefit of ticking a BUZZ POINT ascent of your route, you will know what this when it happens.
Classics include; Hart's Arete, The Web, The Rack, The Knife, Dateline and Black Magic.
There is an almost never ending list of Eliminates and micro problems, with lots of 'you can't use that' or 'that's on the next route'. Hence some of the grades may feel a little over graded. (try it next time but without the massive hold off the previous route)
There are numerous traverses, from the easy (3a) to the improbable (6c) and bouldering in a similar range (up to 7a).
The quarry is owned by the water board which request that the railings at the top of the quarry are not used for belays. Occasional groups of scouts abseil down the Dateline wall to add local colour to the place.
An extensive programme of vegetation management by United Utilities has recently allowed the sun to reach walls that were becoming dank and dark. United Utilities wants to continue without vigilante action by climbers. Respect their wishes.
Some grades have been marked as XS this is simply because the are down right horrible and green and only recorded for historical reasons. If you want to climb these them some time and effort is needed to clean them before hand.
A small note on cleaning; covering damp / wet / dirty / slimy holds with copius amount of chalk does not clean them. In fact it produces a rather horrible paste that actually 'polishes' holds. Think of it like a rock Brasso. To clean them; use your beer towel (other types of towel will do)to dry off the hold and remove wet crud, then toothbrush *NOT* wire brush holds to finish. Chalk is for your hands.
Lady Jane Eliminate Bouldering Maps can be found at the links below. Please follow instructions that accompany the photo when submitting new problems.
Lady Jane Eliminate Map 1 Unicorn to Hart's Arete. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=203765

Some nice Beta video's http://vimeo.com/65447814

Approach notes

M62 junction 7, head S on the A569. Turn R after 0.7mi onto the A5080. After 400m a Sixth Form College is passed on the L and almost immediately some old green gateposts can be seen on the R. Go up the track between these (beware speed bumps) to parking at the top of the track.
Exit car park via pedestrian gate and walk downhill and rightwards until the green railings surrounding the quarry can be seen. Follow these left or right to enter the quarry at its lowest point. 5 min walk.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
All the popular routes have double bolt belays at the top - plus some strops around trees. Take plenty of slings and put your rope through a screwgate crab hung over the edge. To get up crawl through the tunnel under the fence (honestly) above Lady Jane wall, climb the corner r of Pex Wall, climb A Route L of The Rack or climb up on the back slabs opposite the entrance. Join Friends of Pex Hill on facebook where you can pose questions like this to regulars,
Pekkie - 15/May/19
I'm relatively new to outdoor climbing, and my friend and I decided top roping some easier climbs at pex might be the best place to start. We got rained off, so for next time I'd like some pointers. Which lines are bolted? What's the best way to get to the bolts?
Madajo - 10/May/18
Return trip after a few years away. Two things shocked me: the whole place has tilted up by a couple of degrees. Leading the dateline no longer relieves tension. A crag clean up too far I fear.
steveriley - 16/Jun/15
still a cracking crag, needs more love and attention.And cleaning now the trees are gone. Ps has somebody chipped breakaway or has it always been like that? I can't remember its so long since I was on it.
Alan Cameron-Duff - 20/Apr/15
This is where I experienced rock climbing for the very first time some 33 years ago. For the sake of nostalgia I often pay it a visit when I pop over from Australia, my current home. I did this in April 2014 and can only say it was squalid. Garbage and broken glass everywhere and the bin at the car park by the observatory overflowing with bags of dog shit. The smell was overpowering. What a shame.
Karl Bromelow - 28/Apr/14
I live down the road from pex hill, and it's true you do sometimes get groups of kids drinking up there, but only if you're there quite late and on a friday-sunday, i've only climbed there once but i walk the dog up there and it's normally very quiet.
Drumguru1 - 24/Jan/13
Last but one visit I saw a Kestrel catch something in the bottom of the quarry and eat it on a small ledge near the top of Dateline. No-one else there as it was a rather damp evening, not entirely urban squalor!
harold walmsley - 20/Jul/12
Climb here all the time, it's a nice quiet place to go and climb. Needs a little bit of a clean up though down in the Quarry maybe one day we will get a little cleaning up session going on down there, with the people that use it and make it a nice clean place to going and climb for all of out fellow climbers :D who's up for it ??
_Robert_Watson_ - 15/Dec/11
Ignore the comments about people getting rocks thrown at them. This has never happened to me. Never had anything stolen from there either but keep an eye on the valuables just in case, or better still leave them at home. There's not that much litter about either, true that it's worse than most crags but the often mentioned fields of broken glass don't actually exist.
Will Hunt - 17/Jan/09
Yea it's Widnes not Liverpool. I live just down the road and would hate to think that I live in such an armpit. That said it may as well be, what with the local youths knocking about throwing rocks at the climbers. If you catch her on a good day then you can have a bomber day at Pex other wise your just gonna get stoned (and not in the good way.) An excelent place for honing finger strength and tech.
Quixos - 09/Dec/08
Just a note that Widnes is not in Liverpool (I am from the next town across) - but true there is little to do for the young people, still no excuse to be making a mess though! Scooperman - I'll be home in the summer months for some climbing - may see you around?
Krusty162002 - 04/Feb/08
Any climbers around pex hill, i'm 17, and a local of Cronton, wondering if you guys go regularly, as i'm looking to start learning how to climb properly. Mainly for pekkie, as i'd probably recognize you anyway.
scooperman - 19/Jan/08
I some times wonder about people, its in the middle of liverpool! what do you want the kids to stay away, for young kids growing up on estates and that, this is a paradise play ground. no i am not sicking up for them, as its angers me to thats they cant keep there emptys, but thats life, its in a city, people are way to used to the hills ect... so when coming to this crag they see littler and think "oh no" when you should be thinkin, "well i cant compare it to north wales, as its in liverpool" does that make sense....
phil_freeman - 14/Dec/07
Nice place to bolder, unfortunately the local kids seem to take great pleasure in going up to the edge of the quarry getting drunk and launching their empty's into the quarry, so now the vast majority of the quarry floor is covered in glass and litter. If you dont have a boldering mat i would advise against going here, as dropping off the wall onto the floor can result in glass going straight through your rock shoes. Again a real shame about this area, i dont think i'll be venturing here again until something is done about the vandels.
deltamatt71 - 10/Sep/07
Nice pic of staminade...but don't forget this was soled in 1989!! Anyone out there repeated it?
Parker550 - 01/Dec/06
Hi, I went climbing at Pex Hill for the first time in 10 years. There are still some great routes there but you need to beware. On arrival we met a climber that had just had is wallet stolen from his rucksack. It appears that a bloke and his very young daughter were sat at the bottom watching them climb. They think that he saw the wallet being zipped into a pocket on the rucksack and while the climber was climbing they had away with the wallet. There were also a couple of groups of mid-teenage lads hanging around. Throwing rocks and generally making a noise and making it difficult to concentrate on the climbing. Shame really.
spacedog21 - 12/Sep/06
Phil yer messer, telling stories there? Pex is a great place, great for homing talents and generating better finger strength, giveit a try...
Jamie - 18/Feb/06
I have been climbing for many years.Pex is a happy go lucky type of crag good for finger strength and technique good to camp for locals are willing to share there marijuana and cronton girls.So come and make a night of it and climb of the morning
Phill baker - 23/Jan/06
I added a few comments against some of the routes, myself and chris hunter were fairly active at pexy in the early 70's, i actually lent phil davidson my eb's to try a route when he turned up after school with a mate. we did loads of stuff and some of the naming of routes, i am the rob on the back wall, kev and rob about 2 thirds up. pex hill is definately one of the best little crags in the world. robbie mallinson
robbie mallinson - 21/Jan/06
omg never seen anything better, best bloody climbs for miles i have to agree THE DOGS BOLLOCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nolo - 15/Jan/06
its for people who don't like heights and is home to hippies and glue sniffers
helen - 14/Nov/05
Fantastic training and so much better than an indoor wall on a summers evening. Not much there that is easy.
Richard Bradley - 03/Aug/05
Spent 30 years of my life climbing at Pex Hill - right on my doorstep. That's where the name Pekkie comes from! Tried to correct errors and provide historical context - see my comments on individual routes. This is a great crag - very good for technique and finger strength. Dries out quickly too. Does need regular cleaning and pruning back of brambles and gorse. Volunteers welcome!
Pekkie - 16/Jul/05
Totally fcukin awesome. Nuff said...
Original Party Boy - 17/Jun/05
Heaven is a hole in the ground. One of the best bouldering/soloing venues in the land. Awesome for your footwork, balance and finger strength. If you think your good at slabs then try Monoblock.....
andy farnell - 31/Mar/03
THE DOGS BOLLOCKS, best crag on earth all those who never climb here should be flogged
666DENVER666 - 10/Mar/03
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Climbs at this crag

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