50m, 2 pitches.
III WI4+/5
Impressive icefalls jumping down on a few big overhangs at the end of the left flank of the cirque (faceing the mountain). Due to the exposure, they are rarely in conditions, in this case though, they are a worty visit climb. The line can follow either of the two coloumns after a common pitch.
P1. Attack the icefalls, passing bulges and short steep successive sections up to the narrowing between the two upper coloumns (30m, WI3, anchor on two bolts).
Left line:
P2. Climb the interior of the coloumn between the rock and the ice up to an hard move to get out. Then top out on slightly easier terrain in the gully above the falls (20m, WI5, anchor on bolts).
Right line:
P2. A few steps down-climbing let you attack the coloumn in the center. Continue through a narrowing which is often passed with a few mixed moves using the rock forming the corner. Continue in the goulotte up to the ledges, belaying on a jammed rock (WI5).
Descent: for both finishing option, abseil on the route. For the right exit, the descent anchor is on the ledge near the jammed rock.
Impressive icefalls jumping down on a few big overhangs at the end of the left flank of the cirque (faceing the mountain). Due to the exposure, they are rarely in conditions, in this case though, they are a worty visit climb. The line can follow either of the two coloumns after a common pitch.
P1. Attack the icefalls, passing bulges and short steep successive sections up to the narrowing between the two upper coloumns (30m, WI3, anchor on two bolts).
Left line:
P2. Climb the interior of the coloumn between the rock and the ice up to an hard move to get out. Then top out on slightly easier terrain in the gully above the falls (20m, WI5, anchor on bolts).
Right line:
P2. A few steps down-climbing let you attack the coloumn in the center. Continue through a narrowing which is often passed with a few mixed moves using the rock forming the corner. Continue in the goulotte up to the ledges, belaying on a jammed rock (WI5).
Descent: for both finishing option, abseil on the route. For the right exit, the descent anchor is on the ledge near the jammed rock.
A. Bosticco, A. Cò, F. Molino.
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