230m, 5 pitches.
III, M3 WI3
Mixed route in between the classic icefalls. The first part on ice was climbed for the first time in the 80s by P. L. Perona and B. Pica Garino, while the complete mixed line was completed by Bernardi and Maritano in 2015. Attack the obvious gully/dihedral 50m on the left of "Gias Della Buffa Sinistra". Trad gear required to protect the upper mixed pitches.
P1. Directly on ice following the gully. Bolted anchor on the left (50m, WI3).
P2. Continue as the previous one. Bolted anchor on the left (50m, WI3).
P3. Continue as the previous one. Bolted anchor on the left (50m, WI3).
P4. Traverse rightward to tackle the big dihedral and then follow it on mixed terrain. Depending on the conditions of the ice, it is also possible to ascend diagonally toward right to avoid the horizontal traverse. Bolted anchor on the right (50m, M3 WI3).
P5. Finish the dihedral. Anchor on a single bolt with carabiner on the right (30m, M3).
Descent: Abseil on the route.
Mixed route in between the classic icefalls. The first part on ice was climbed for the first time in the 80s by P. L. Perona and B. Pica Garino, while the complete mixed line was completed by Bernardi and Maritano in 2015. Attack the obvious gully/dihedral 50m on the left of "Gias Della Buffa Sinistra". Trad gear required to protect the upper mixed pitches.
P1. Directly on ice following the gully. Bolted anchor on the left (50m, WI3).
P2. Continue as the previous one. Bolted anchor on the left (50m, WI3).
P3. Continue as the previous one. Bolted anchor on the left (50m, WI3).
P4. Traverse rightward to tackle the big dihedral and then follow it on mixed terrain. Depending on the conditions of the ice, it is also possible to ascend diagonally toward right to avoid the horizontal traverse. Bolted anchor on the right (50m, M3 WI3).
P5. Finish the dihedral. Anchor on a single bolt with carabiner on the right (30m, M3).
Descent: Abseil on the route.
Giancarlo Maritano, Bernardi 2015.
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