UKC

Can be accessed from La Berarde, via Temple Ecrins hut, or from Ailefroide via Glacier Noir. Good bivvy spots on Glacier Noir approach.

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User Date Notes
samwillo 1 Aug Show βeta
βeta: In late summer, for the approach from Pré de Madame Carle: Cross the step in the Glacier Noir, using a gully on the right side of the waterfall. Hard to find the best way in the dark. For getting to the Col, go to the bivi spots on the rock outcrop around 2950m, then follow the rock up (cairns) rather than taking the scree slopes. For the ridge, go to the very top of the Col then along, stay more or less at the top of the ridge but slightly on the right. Easy to stray off path and do sections of grade 3 or 4. Snow patches around 3600m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In late summer, for the approach from Pré de Madame Carle: Cross the step in the Glacier Noir, using a gully on the right side of the waterfall. Hard to find the best way in the dark. For getting to the Col, go to the bivi spots on the rock outcrop around 2950m, then follow the rock up (cairns) rather than taking the scree slopes. For the ridge, go to the very top of the Col then along, stay more or less at the top of the ridge but slightly on the right. Easy to stray off path and do sections of grade 3 or 4. Snow patches around 3600m.

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