UKC

Climbs 23
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 314m a.s.l
Faces S

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View of the crag from the parking © Dave Turnbull

Crag features

A prominent wall of red limestone overlooking the A23 motorway. The crag gets lots of sun and is best on a cool or cloudy day. The red rock is quite smooth and the strata means there are mostly flat, square, blocky holds, horizontal crimps or side pulls. The style of climbing is similar on most routes so they may seem a bit 'samey'. Originally the crag had a good deal of loose rock, but it has been pretty well cleaned and this has mostly gone. The routes and belays are well bolted. Views from the crag are superb, but there is constant noise from the motorway traffic in the valley below. The crag is nothing special, but worth a visit if you are not far away and you climb 5's and 6's. The section of wall with Alejan-dria is quite good. A visit without a guidebook and just this info is feasible, as there are only 22 routes and just over half way along the wall a prominent darker pillar leans against the wall. The two 5a's, Escondite and Toma mas Tomas are easily identified just left of this and this will allow you to work out the other routes.

Approach notes

Leave the A23 motorway at junction 14. At the roundabout take the 'via de servico' which runs close to and parallel to the motorway heading NW. Follow this for 1.4km where a small tarmac road turns R sharply back on yourself. Follow this small road for 0.8km to a bend where there is what looks like an electricity sub-station and park there (more space up the steep concrete track). You are under the left hand end of the crag. The building is actually a pumping station for a small reservoir that cannot be seen from below. Walk up the steep concrete track, left onto an earth terrace and follow a path up round to the left of the reservoir to the left end of the crag. Short, but steep, 10/15 minutes.

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Climbs at this crag

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