Climbs 11
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 570m a.s.l
Faces S
Filippo on Piccolo Teschio © Filippo Ghilardini
Crag features
Piccolo Teschio (Little Skull) Crag is ideal for those approaching TRAD climbing; there are several lines that are relatively easy technically and not hard to protect. The pitches are not long, making it possible to keep a good eye on the lead climber at all times.
Some pitches are progressively more difficult both technically and to protect; they can be a goal for beginners, or a little extra engagement for those who are already experienced. The placing of protections is mainly from good resting positions, the R1-2-3 risk ratings given the context are not particularly “severe,” as are the grades.
On all routes a rope can be put from above as an additional safety, in case you want to try the lines as a first-timer but are not quite sure. The rappel belays are easily reached via a specially cleared trail that starts just before the crag. Some care is needed in leaning out.
The “Skull” rating is an ancestor of the R1 -2 -3 etc. risk rating. We used to use it to express the fear generated by a route or passage, hence the distinction between Small and Big Skull, to repeaters do the test and define an official conversion. Skull!!!
Extreme care and respect is recommended for the land on which the parking lot, approach and crag insist. Lush vegetation is present that we have tried to disturb as little as possible, including beautiful succulents, agaves and cacti. Please have the utmost respect for the site and the inhabitants of the hamlet.
Approach notes
Reach Borgone Susa via the SS24, which then becomes the SS25, turn right at Via Florio Benvenuto, go straight on past the level crossing (leave out the turnoff to Castlas on the right) and then take a left over a small bridge (direction Chiampano and rock gyms). Continue along the narrow road and pass the parking lot of the Falesia degli Artisti and the classic Borgone Quarry. Continue always on F. Benvenuto street, after a hairpin bend (parking lot for the Cavanut crag), backtrack to the junction for Chiampano hamlet, to be followed on the right. Continue between houses, after a few dozen dirt meters you will come to a small parking lot on the left.
It is recommended that you park carefully and compact your cars, there are few spaces and they are also used by residents. Alternatively, shortly after the Achit/Chiampano junction it is possible to park a bit uphill at the roadside on the right. It is also possible to park at the Borgone Quarry with 10 more minutes approach.
From the parking lot go back about 60 meters and take the path on the right. Past a first old quarry follow the path for about a hundred meters until you come to a fork, here you must take left. You pass near another old quarry (work in progress) with old stone buildings. Continue along the hillside and past the last stone buildings you will find a track in the vegetation (cairns) that briefly leads slightly downhill to the Little Skull cliff.
Almost at the crag, at a very obvious sign on the ground, made from the old stone planters of the vineyards, a small path starts on the right that allows you to reach the top of the crag and possibly equip the lines from above with a safety rope.
Total 5 minutes from the parking lot, 25 meters positive elevation gain.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Filippo Ghilardini