305m, 10 pitches. In January 2023, Inspired by conversations with Argentinian climbing legend Saber de la Cruz, our group of 8 climbers from the UK, USA, Brazil, France, Argentina, and Chile set off to explore the Turbio Valley and establish new routes. We spent 5 days accessing the valley via foot & horse pack roughly 80km away, with multiple deep river crossings and 2 Tyrolleans. Upon arrival, we split into smaller teams and chose individual objectives.Mike Coyle, John Collis and I, teamed up to attempt a route on an the South Face of an unnamed wall beneath Pico Tres Negros. Deciding on an obvious crack system that appeared to go to the summit, we discovered after pitch 2 that the cracks were flared and mostly unprotectable. We spent 7 out of our 10 days in the valley pushing the route higher before rations and impending weather forced us to leave. We spent 1 day hiking to the confluence of the Rio Turbio 4 where we picked up pack rafts which we had stored during our hike in. Sleeping on the shore of the river that night, the following day we packrafted the 40km back to the dock at Lago Puelo.

Gareth Leah

Map to Turbio: https://earth.google.com/earth/d/1H-k0FcxYSj07UT3cOHnmzLKodJ5MxG1d?usp=sharing

ROUTE: Soft Hammer, 5.11d/A1, 1030ft
1: 30m cracks 5.8
2: 60m off width 5.9
3: 20m shorty to roof 5.10
4: 35m roof traverse to arching crack to large ledge, 5.11d.
5: 30m traverse ledge. Huge. Sleep Many. Hike
6: 30m Broken cracks to face climb 5.11b
7: 30m traverse the wooded ledge 5.8
8: 25m climb a corner 5.11c
9: 25m hard corner, aid A1
10. 30m hard corner, aid A1

Gallery of images: https://wellgoodproductions.pixieset.com/exploringturbiopatagonia/

Gareth Leah, Mike Coyle, John Collis 24/Jan/2023.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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