UKC

59m, 2 pitches. A superb direct line up the middle of the Main Face to reach the middle of Virgo ledge, with an independent finish on the crag above. Start - 2m right of Lunar Wall at a small V-shaped recess.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb groove in back of recess to stance. Step up to flake at arete and climb shallow corner to gain square-cut ledge on the arete. Move up and right to good cracks (crux) leading up the wall to below a final small overhang. Climb directly up through this to reach the Virgo ledge.
2) 5a, 24m. From the right-hand end of the large overhang to the right of Virgo Pitch 4 make an ascending leftwards traverse back over the overhang to gain the nose which is followed to the top.

R.Greene, R. Cowan (Two aid points). /69. S. Billane (One aid point). 9/75. E. Cooper, T. Ryan (First free ascent). /83.

Ticklists

3 Star Mournes, MRes Ticklist, Ireland 3 Star E1-E2, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches

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High E3
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Ethical Backfire

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Hen Mountain)
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