UKC

35m. This line follows the right side of the newly cleaned broken buttress left of Taurus. The FA was climbed in two pitches avoiding rope drag and giving that old school feel of Mournes multi-pitch climbing. A great intro for multi-pitch skills with many good belay stances and a solid thread abseil point.
Start on the right side of the buttress up and round the corner at a huge crevice that can be peered right through to the other side. Climb the cracks and holds above to gain a good stance at the large spike on the stepped spur (belay taken).
Move above the spike and make a delicate (bold) move onto the clean slab. Continue directly up the cleaned granite using cracks and classic Mourne flutings to the top. On up heathery slope to block belay, abseil point (Always Check).

P Swail, C Hiller Alt Leads 20/Jun/2012.

Ticklists

VS Multipitches in Ireland , VS 4c Multipitch Mournes , Irish MCI Multipitch Routes

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Route of Interest
Virgo

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Pigeon Rock)

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