A worthwhile destination close to Malaga that has plenty of good climbing in a marvellous location - the views out across the Mediterranean towards Gibraltar and Africa from the west side are spectacular. The two areas are on either side of a hill and face in opposite directions giving sun and shade at different times. The west walls have fingery and technical routes on long vertical walls, although there are a couple of steeper sections. The east side has shorter lines of a much more compact nature, in less exposed environment and with more to offer in the lower grades.
West - this side gets the sun from mid-afternoon onwards, which makes it a useful morning crag in hot weather. However, once the sun arrives there is very little shade to be had at the base of the crag. A couple of the corners are northwest-facing keeping the shade for a little longer. Some of the steeper sections may stay dry in light rain.
East - the eastern side gets the sun until mid-afternoon. It has no steep sections but will dry quickly after rain.
Exit the A-7 east of Malaga at junction 246a. Head north for 0.4km towards Pinares de San Antón.
West - At a T-junction, turn left onto 'Av. St Antón' and after 100m, branch left before a big pylon onto a road marked as a dead end. Follow this and take the left fork signed 'Parque Lagarillo Blanc'. Continue to reach another turn to Parque Lagarillo to the left and drive onto a large parking area at a picnic site. Walk along the track for a few minutes to a path that heads up the hillside to the crag in around 10 mins. The crag is around 1 hour and 10 mins from El Chorro.
East - At a T-junction, turn left onto 'Av. St Antón' and stay on this road for 2km until a chained-off dirt track on the left - park opposite. This is about 50m after a sharp right-hand bend with a conspicuous yellow wall. Walk up the track and then take another track that cuts back right. A short way along the track, a path heads off up left to the base of the crag - about 7 mins from the car.