UKC

Climbs 133
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 290m a.s.l
Faces all

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Mark Glaister on Lacitos at Pinares de San Antón © Alan James

Crag features

A worthwhile destination close to Malaga that has plenty of good climbing in a marvellous location - the views out across the Mediterranean towards Gibraltar and Africa from the west side are spectacular. The two areas are on either side of a hill and face in opposite directions giving sun and shade at different times. The west walls have fingery and technical routes on long vertical walls, although there are a couple of steeper sections. The east side has shorter lines of a much more compact nature, in less exposed environment and with more to offer in the lower grades.

West - this side gets the sun from mid-afternoon onwards, which makes it a useful morning crag in hot weather. However, once the sun arrives there is very little shade to be had at the base of the crag. A couple of the corners are northwest-facing keeping the shade for a little longer. Some of the steeper sections may stay dry in light rain.

East - the eastern side gets the sun until mid-afternoon. It has no steep sections but will dry quickly after rain.

Approach notes

Exit the A-7 east of Malaga at junction 246a. Head north for 0.4km towards Pinares de San Antón.

West - At a T-junction, turn left onto 'Av. St Antón' and after 100m, branch left before a big pylon onto a road marked as a dead end. Follow this and take the left fork signed 'Parque Lagarillo Blanc'. Continue to reach another turn to Parque Lagarillo to the left and drive onto a large parking area at a picnic site. Walk along the track for a few minutes to a path that heads up the hillside to the crag in around 10 mins. The crag is around 1 hour and 10 mins from El Chorro.

East - At a T-junction, turn left onto 'Av. St Antón' and stay on this road for 2km until a chained-off dirt track on the left - park opposite. This is about 50m after a sharp right-hand bend with a conspicuous yellow wall. Walk up the track and then take another track that cuts back right. A short way along the track, a path heads off up left to the base of the crag - about 7 mins from the car.

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Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
More Guidebooks:
Guía de Escalada en Málaga (2019)

Shade on the east crag throughout afternoon / evening..
wolf.leeb - 21/Sep/13
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Climbs at this crag

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