Altitude 339m a.s.l
Eight crags round the small village of Pinet, 25km East from Gandia. Grades 5 to 8b. The guidebook can be purchased from the bar at Pinet and costs €10. I encourage people to buy the guide as a contribution to the bolt fund and to give appreciation for the work that has gone into equipping this climbing area. Unfortunately approach information in the guide consists of only an aerial map (which makes finding the crags entertaining!). See approach notes below for some of the sectors.
The right of Carpi faces E, further left you go, slightly more ESE. Capelles faces more SW.
From Gandia take the CV 60 towards Xativa for 16km before taking the CV 610 to Llutxent, then Pinet. A shorter route for those already climbing at the Gandia crags is to take track (which is initially surfaced) from the first Barx roundabout.
Gallo and Paret del Castell sectors - Drive into town. At T junction turn right. At the top of the hill, bear right by a row of houses. The road now goes down hill and at a bend, park by the olive trees. Walk through to the other side of the olive trees to pick up a path. This starts level but then drops down to the dry river bed. Follow this until you see the Gallo sector on the left and Paret del Castell sector on the right.
Balco Runal, Runal, Carpi and Capelles - From the bar (don't forget to buy the guide first!) go to the end of the road and turn left. As you leave Pinet you'll see a sign post to the crags up a tarmac road on the right. Follow it and the crag sign posts for approximately 4k, where you'll find a cairn on the right and another sign. Take this dirt track and I think this takes you to the parking identified (poorly!) in the local guide. Crags are again sign posted from here along paths that sort of match the ariel shot in the guide.
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