Approach notes

From Gandia take the 'new motorway' CV-60 west towards Rotova and L'Olleria for 16km before taking the CV-610 north to Llutxent, then a right turn on CV-608 to Pinet.   

Mosku - This is to the left (west) of the CV-608 heading north from Llutxent to Pinet. There is a sign to the sector up a small tarmac road, but it is only really visible when heading back south from the town. The turning is 1.95km south of the T junction at the top of the town. Park respectfully at the end of the tarmac. Go round the chain at the end of the road. Take a path rightwards through the orchard. Drop down into the dry streambed for a short way and then follow a path up and left to the crag. 10 minutes walk.

Gallo and Paret del Castell sectors - At the T junction at the top of town turn right. the road goes up hill for 250m. At the top of the hill, by a row of houses, take the right fork. The road now goes down hill for 300m with no houses either side. At a right hand bend, park by the olive trees. Walk through to the other side of the olive trees to pick up a path that starts level but then drops down to the dry river bed. Turn left and follow this until you see the Gallo sector on the left and Paret del Castell sector on the right. (10-15 mins walk)

The Gallo parking can also be reached by turning right (east) on a small road before entering the town from the south. It is 450m south of the T junction at the top of town. Follow this small road for 300m to a T junction, turn left (north) and after 500m you reach the parking on the now left hand bend.

Runal, Balco Runal, Carpi and Capelles – At the T junction at the top of the town, turn left and go down hill for 200m. As you leave Pinet you'll see a small tarmac road going diagonally up and right. There is a sign with green text. “deposit contra incendis forestals”. (This is just before the public barbeque area which is on the right hand side of the left hand bend in the road). Follow the singletrack road for approx 2km to a right fork where there are signs for the crags. Continue uphill on concrete road and then a more level section of smooth dirt road then tarmac again until approx 4km from the town. Here there’s a cairn, some walking signs, an information board and some brown signs to the crags pointing right. Take a smooth dirt track to the right for about 250m to a parking place. This is a short distance before a larger parking area marked as Troncomovil on Google maps, but the last few metres of track may be a little steep and soft for smaller hire cars.

(It is possible to get to the Troncomovil parking from Barx, on a dirt road, initially surfaced, but I have not done it.) 

From Troncomovil there is a sign to the left to Carpi (20 mins walk) and Capelles (45 mins walk) Follow the yellow and white marked botanical trail for about 15 mins to a signpost for Carpi where you drop down and right. Capelles crag is visible in the distance from here. Continue on the yellow and white path for at least another 10 minutes to a sign right to Capelles. A small path cut through the bushes and scrub goes into a small valley and winds up and over a couple of ridges to arrive at the crag at a rope handrail.

From Troncomovil there are signs to the right  for Runal and Balco Runal (15 mins walk). This takes a good path gently down and a little right, then curving back left essentially getting you into the dry gorge. After a short rope handrail the path splits left for Runal and right for Balco Runal all fairly obvious.

Penya Llarga sector - The approach path starts from the Font de Castells. This is reached by turning right (east) on a small road before entering the town from the south. It is 450m south of the T junction at the top of town. Follow this small road for 300m to a T junction, turn right (south) and in 100m you reach the Font.There is an image showing the path in the photos section. I assume there will be signs for the crag as all other sectors I have visited are signposted.