A steep crag in a pleasant location, offering powerful routes and fine views down towards the coast. It is an easy drive from Calp, taking just 20 minutes, and both sectors are next to the road with good, well-bolted routes. The crag offers a small number of lower-grade routes, but is best suited to the climber operating in the high 7s.
The routes aren't that long, but the climbing tends to be steep and sustained with powerful moves, packing a lot into their diminutive length. Sector Pinturas is dominated by steep roof-climbs whereas Sector Casa tends to contain more sustained walls.
Sector Pinturas is the location of some ancient cave paintings which are fenced off in the middle of the crag. Don't get too excited about this historical relic though, the paintings are not very visible.
Pinos generally faces southwest, although Sector Casa gives shade for a bit longer. They are not very exposed to the wind, and in Sector Pinturas the roofs give some protection from rain. Sector Casa dries quickly and is a good venue after rain, although after prolonged wet spells the tufa systems will seep.
Travel north from Calp along the N332 towards Benissa and take the signed left turn towards Xaló/Jalón. If you are coming from further south, use the AP-7 and leave at junction 63, then turn south and drive through Benissa to reach the same Xaló/Jalón junction. Immediately after turning towards Xaló/Jalón, take the road on the left, signed to the village of Pinos. After 5km there is a pronounced right-hand bend (great views from the mirador) where the Sector Pinturas is immediately above you. Park on the bend for this buttress, or travel 250m further along the road, round a left-hand bend, to reach restricted parking for the Sector Casa.