5752m.
Ascended from the East to a col to the south of the summit. A broad ridge is then followed to the top. Some difficulties may be encountered at the summit snow mushroom. In recent years glacial retreat has pushed the grade up to AD- with up to 60degree ice encountered near the mouth of the glacier.
1951.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| martinfindlay | 29 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: This climb is no longer an 'easy' first mountain as advertised around Huaraz. Due to glacial retreat, you start at the crumpled mouth of the glacier, i.e. a large icy crevasse field which can be relatively steep in places and requires jumping several crevasses up to 0.8m wide. There is also a large serac about halfway up and an approximately 15m steep 45 degree climb near the summit. It is a great route and stunning views from the top, but I would get a guide unless you are a confident mountaineer. Took us about 9 hours from hut to hut. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This climb is no longer an 'easy' first mountain as advertised around Huaraz. Due to glacial retreat, you start at the crumpled mouth of the glacier, i.e. a large icy crevasse field which can be relatively steep in places and requires jumping several crevasses up to 0.8m wide. There is also a large serac about halfway up and an approximately 15m steep 45 degree climb near the summit. It is a great route and stunning views from the top, but I would get a guide unless you are a confident mountaineer. Took us about 9 hours from hut to hut. |
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