UKC

Climbs 200
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 4001m a.s.l

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The Gran Desplome area of Pitumarca © crimpy

Crag features

One of the premier sport climbing destinations in Peru, Ch'aqo Wayllasqa is a truly unique destination, offering not only superb and varied sport climbing, but also the opportunity to cohabit this incredible valley with the local communities. The climbing here was developed mainly by Diana Gómez and Jorges Sirvas Milla, known as Coco, who live in Pitumarca and rent out climbing and camping equipment as well as offering shoe resoling.

There is excellent climbing on both sides of the valley, including friction-dependent slabs, technical vertical faces, and steep roofs and tufas. Gran Desplome is the most eye-catching sector, but there is a lot of variety and interesting climbing throughout the valley. There is limited easier climbing (4s and 5s) but great climbing from 6b and above. The rock is sharp in places and the friction is excellent due to the lack of polish.

The climbing areas are accessed from the town of Pitumarca, a 2.5-hour drive from Cusco. From Pitumarca, you can drive or take a taxi up the valley to the various sectors, which are accessible from the road. If you are just visiting for the day, please visit the refugio to pay the park entry fee (3 PEN per person).

The refugio also offers a bunkhouse, with a common area and pit toilets, a campsite, and private rooms. As of 2024, the fee to camp or to stay in the bunkhouse is 4 PEN per person per night (note that if you choose to camp, you can also use the bunkhouse for cooking or shelter. The private rooms are available on a first come, first serve basis and cost 20 PEN per person per night. There is also an additional fee of 3 PEN per person per day for entry to the national park. All fees are payable in cash (only) to the locals that run the site.

Note that there is a second climbing area, Kuntur Sayana, also accessible from Pitumarca via car. It has its own refugio and camps

Approach notes

First, you need to reach the town of Pitumarca in the Ausangate region. From Cusco you can either drive, take a taxi (likely to be over 300 PEN), or take public transport, instructions as follows.

Public transport

From Cusco, reach the Terminal De Transportes Unancha (https://maps.app.goo.gl/X1M2CoSC23uWh3YH9) and catch a bus to Checacupe (12 PEN per person in 2024). Note that the bus will continue to the town of Sicuani, so ensure you get off at Checacupe. The drive will take around 2 hours.

From Checacupe, either catch a taxi (10 PEN) or a collectivo to Pitumarca. This will take around 10 minutes. Due to the altitude, it is recommended that you stay for 1 night in one of the many guest houses or hostels to acclimatise before heading up to the crag.

Reaching the refugio

To reach the refugio, you can either take a taxi from the central plaza in Pitumarca (for a cost of ~30 PEN), or you can walk the road (with various cut-through trails) uphill for 5km (this would take 3-4 hours and is not recommended).

To return to Pitumarca, follow the road back down, using the various cut-through trails to shorten the distance (1-2 hours).

Crag access

The crags can be seen on either side of the valley as you approach the refugio from Pitumarca. All the sectors are walkable in 10-40 minutes from the refugio via clear and signposted trails.

Access Advice

Access is dependent on climbers abiding by the following rules (and any others listed at the refugio):

  • All visitors must register and pay the entrance fee
  • Be mindful of the people who live in Ch’aqo Wayllasqa, Hach’oqho, and Santa Elena, as well of crop fields, animals, and the local way of live
  • Access to both parks by motor vehicles and on foot is from 06:00 to 17:30 (or while there is daylight) only. The noise and lights of cars or hikers with headlamps can scare the alpacas, as well as disturb the tranquility of the community members who live near the climbing areas
  • Keep dogs leashed and under control at all times and dispose of any waste in appropriate places
  • Do not allow your dogs to dig holes as this can damage flora and cause erosion
  • Use marked trails to prevent erosion. Do not walk on crop fields
  • Open fires of any type are prohibited inside the climbing parks
  • Camp only in designated areas
  • Fishing in the river that runs through the park is prohibited
  • Take all rubbish with you when you leave as there are no appropriate places to dispose of rubbish
  • Use the toilets available in the climbing and camping areas
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