UKC

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Top quality Alps under 4000m , The Big Easys , A mix of routes to the summits of great Peaks in the Alps via standard'ish routes , Alps 22 , Big Ideas

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User Date Notes
Gwinn512 16 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, easy-ish climbing on super solid rock. All the crux pitches are well protected with bolts. Took us about 7h for the climbing, but got lost on the descent and abseiled the wrong way, which ended up taking about 4h from summit to hut.
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βeta: Awesome route, easy-ish climbing on super solid rock. All the crux pitches are well protected with bolts. Took us about 7h for the climbing, but got lost on the descent and abseiled the wrong way, which ended up taking about 4h from summit to hut.
raliadsa skcalbwah 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: We left a car in Bagni di Masino on the South side of the range and then drove our second car round to Bondo (about an hour's drive). New path to Sasc Fura hut is pegged at 5 hrs 45 mins to 6 hours so we were pleasantly surprised to do it in 3 hrs 30. Not much fun and annoying to climb significantly above hut to then have to descend to it. We opted to bivi and hiked up to the base of the ridge in about 1 hr 15 or so. Many good bivi spots and running water from snow patches saw us have a comfortable night and a relatively chilled start at 4.15am. Started simul climbing at 5.30am and took probably a wrong line on the initial scrambly section getting to the ridge proper, which involved climbing a wet corner and was a somewhat unwelcome start to the day. Once on the ridge we dropped our coils and made decent progress to top out in 5 hours exactly (split into 5 blocks of leading). The ridge has fixed belays and quite a lot of bolts/pegs but keep an eye on the topo as there are a couple of sections where it could go a number of ways and there's fixed kit on wrong lines etc. From the summit, we descended the South side to the Gianetti Hut in 2.5 hrs before walking down to Bagni di Masino in 2 hrs flat.
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βeta: We left a car in Bagni di Masino on the South side of the range and then drove our second car round to Bondo (about an hour's drive). New path to Sasc Fura hut is pegged at 5 hrs 45 mins to 6 hours so we were pleasantly surprised to do it in 3 hrs 30. Not much fun and annoying to climb significantly above hut to then have to descend to it. We opted to bivi and hiked up to the base of the ridge in about 1 hr 15 or so. Many good bivi spots and running water from snow patches saw us have a comfortable night and a relatively chilled start at 4.15am. Started simul climbing at 5.30am and took probably a wrong line on the initial scrambly section getting to the ridge proper, which involved climbing a wet corner and was a somewhat unwelcome start to the day. Once on the ridge we dropped our coils and made decent progress to top out in 5 hours exactly (split into 5 blocks of leading). The ridge has fixed belays and quite a lot of bolts/pegs but keep an eye on the topo as there are a couple of sections where it could go a number of ways and there's fixed kit on wrong lines etc. From the summit, we descended the South side to the Gianetti Hut in 2.5 hrs before walking down to Bagni di Masino in 2 hrs flat.
Simon Caldwell 10 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: As a balance to the comments from those who did the walk to the hut in half an hour, the route in another half, and arrived in Italy in time for breakfast: The walk in to the hut took us a little under 5 hours. Approach to the route the next morning, just under 2 hours. North ridge to the summit was 10 hours. Descent to Ginetti, 4 hours. The hut custodian wasn\'t aware of the details of the new ab descent (she thought it was an unofficial one for rescue purposes) so we took the old one - the guidebook description is pretty poor but the route is fairly well marked. We probably abbed some ground we could have down climbed but better safe than sorry. A total of 4 abseils. The rising ascent towards the old cross was longer than expected. From the cross the description is useless, we abseiled 30m straight down (next to the right hand chimney looking out), followed by a 45m ab to the ground. Path from there to the hut is easy enough, but occasionally tricky to follow in the dark!
βeta?
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βeta: As a balance to the comments from those who did the walk to the hut in half an hour, the route in another half, and arrived in Italy in time for breakfast: The walk in to the hut took us a little under 5 hours. Approach to the route the next morning, just under 2 hours. North ridge to the summit was 10 hours. Descent to Ginetti, 4 hours. The hut custodian wasn't aware of the details of the new ab descent (she thought it was an unofficial one for rescue purposes) so we took the old one - the guidebook description is pretty poor but the route is fairly well marked. We probably abbed some ground we could have down climbed but better safe than sorry. A total of 4 abseils. The rising ascent towards the old cross was longer than expected. From the cross the description is useless, we abseiled 30m straight down (next to the right hand chimney looking out), followed by a 45m ab to the ground. Path from there to the hut is easy enough, but occasionally tricky to follow in the dark!
GGD 18 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: In descent. Really not as much faff as everyone makes out... 4/5 hours. 80m single nice as bolted rap anchors are supposedly 45m apart, although even with 80m a little down scrambling was sometimes required - never too hairy though.
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βeta: In descent. Really not as much faff as everyone makes out... 4/5 hours. 80m single nice as bolted rap anchors are supposedly 45m apart, although even with 80m a little down scrambling was sometimes required - never too hairy though.
Rob84 22 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route - easy but fantastic quality rock. Easy to move together and string multiple pitches together for good chunks of the route. The new approach since the rockfall from the Cengalo is not to be underestimated. It’s now a solid 5hrs from a car park a few hundred metres above Bondo, involving a fairly grim, ant infested and circuitous mission all over the mountain to get to the Sasc Fura hut. This takes you above the hut towards the Passo di Trubanesca and then back down to the hut before heading back up once again to the base of the N Ridge. Because you’re now starting basically from valley level in Switzerland with a long approach, it makes sense than before to descend to the Italian side (rather than descend the N Ridge) and catch public transport (easy enough and around 18euro) back round to Bondo. There is a new and excellent bolted abseil line on the Italian side which is a bit different to the Plaisir Swiss topo. Scramble down chossy ledges from the summit as per the topo to a single ring bolt and from here there are 5x50m abseils on double bolt abseil stations to get you onto the snow below. From there it’s an easy 40mins-1hr to the Ginetti Hut. We continued walking down to the valley the same day and found a decent auberge for 25euro pppn in St Martino just up the street from Bar Monica that was open until late to new arrivals. All in all a great mountain journey.
Show beta
βeta: Great route - easy but fantastic quality rock. Easy to move together and string multiple pitches together for good chunks of the route. The new approach since the rockfall from the Cengalo is not to be underestimated. It’s now a solid 5hrs from a car park a few hundred metres above Bondo, involving a fairly grim, ant infested and circuitous mission all over the mountain to get to the Sasc Fura hut. This takes you above the hut towards the Passo di Trubanesca and then back down to the hut before heading back up once again to the base of the N Ridge. Because you’re now starting basically from valley level in Switzerland with a long approach, it makes sense than before to descend to the Italian side (rather than descend the N Ridge) and catch public transport (easy enough and around 18euro) back round to Bondo. There is a new and excellent bolted abseil line on the Italian side which is a bit different to the Plaisir Swiss topo. Scramble down chossy ledges from the summit as per the topo to a single ring bolt and from here there are 5x50m abseils on double bolt abseil stations to get you onto the snow below. From there it’s an easy 40mins-1hr to the Ginetti Hut. We continued walking down to the valley the same day and found a decent auberge for 25euro pppn in St Martino just up the street from Bar Monica that was open until late to new arrivals. All in all a great mountain journey.

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