UKC

600m. A striking line and one of the most famous and coverted snow aretes in the alps. Good crampon technique is needed to move quickly and safely.

P Gussfeldt with H Grass & J Gross 12/Aug/1878.

Ticklists

Big Alpine Routes , A mix of routes to the summits of great Peaks in the Alps via standard'ish routes , Alps 22

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User Date Notes
climbingronnie 18 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Conditions were icy, we should have gone over the second rock step (sharks fin) instead of round it - a sketchy hard ice traverse. Ridge itself was icy in places, screws were useful.
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βeta: Conditions were icy, we should have gone over the second rock step (sharks fin) instead of round it - a sketchy hard ice traverse. Ridge itself was icy in places, screws were useful.
Pero 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: All the difficulties were on the rock sections. There was a bottleneck at the first rock step and rocks being kicked down. Luckily we kept clear. The snow section was slightly icy but really quite easy. The final section to the summit was quite time consuming with another bottleneck. A good climb, but over-estimated IMO.
βeta?
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βeta: All the difficulties were on the rock sections. There was a bottleneck at the first rock step and rocks being kicked down. Luckily we kept clear. The snow section was slightly icy but really quite easy. The final section to the summit was quite time consuming with another bottleneck. A good climb, but over-estimated IMO.

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Piz Palü Greater Traverse

Grade: AD ***
(Piz Palü)

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