Take the path heading up from the hut and after a few minutes take the left fork of the path to head directly up towards the Tschierva Glacier and round to the north side of Piz Morteratsch. Continue up the glacier in a north-easterly direction, then easterly, to join the north ridge of Piz Morteratsch approximately 0.8 km north of the summit.
Follow snow/ice of up to 30 degrees to the summit directly to the south.


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