UKC

3654m. Normally done in S-N direction from Port to just beyond the Pizzo d'Andolla summit and descending on the west side of the ridge.

Ticklists

Valais Alps - 100 Plus Belles Courses , Top quality Alps under 4000m

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User Date Notes
parrotfish 19 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The snowy sections gets slushy late July-August. On the descent no ice axe-crampons are needed. The small snow field on the approach is hard in the morning, but can be climbed without crampons-ice axe(take only crampons if you are uncomfortable on hard-ice) Climbing the towers could push the grade up to VS/HVS, though there are slings-pitons before the crux moves.
βeta?
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βeta: The snowy sections gets slushy late July-August. On the descent no ice axe-crampons are needed. The small snow field on the approach is hard in the morning, but can be climbed without crampons-ice axe(take only crampons if you are uncomfortable on hard-ice) Climbing the towers could push the grade up to VS/HVS, though there are slings-pitons before the crux moves.
Freddy Dorling 2 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: In dry periods the route can be accessed without snow gear, although you still need to cross the snowfield. This can be done low down where it isn\'t very steep, then follow the slabs up the right hand side of the snowfield and traverse in (this can be loose and awkward though).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In dry periods the route can be accessed without snow gear, although you still need to cross the snowfield. This can be done low down where it isn't very steep, then follow the slabs up the right hand side of the snowfield and traverse in (this can be loose and awkward though).
Andy Cloquet 9 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As the hut custodian said, the ability to move extraordinarily fast and efficiently are the keys to completing the route anywhere near the guidebook time. That written, it is a superb route of extraordinary variety. Avoiding the crux makes the route a wee bit slicker but with the crux, the grade has to be High in the AD+ grade...and just watch the Chamois ease across steep slabs which hand 500m+ above the snow-free corries below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As the hut custodian said, the ability to move extraordinarily fast and efficiently are the keys to completing the route anywhere near the guidebook time. That written, it is a superb route of extraordinary variety. Avoiding the crux makes the route a wee bit slicker but with the crux, the grade has to be High in the AD+ grade...and just watch the Chamois ease across steep slabs which hand 500m+ above the snow-free corries below.

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Voting
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
North Ridge

Grade: AD+ ***
(Weisshorn)

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