UKC

Climbs 9
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 74m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Pizzo Monaco © Daimon Beail

Crag features

The spectacular pinnacle of Pizzo Monaco on Monte Monaco's northwest tip has a series of interesting multi-pitch routes, most of which reach the top for a full summit experience and accompanying abseil descent. The routes are shorter than on the nearby Parete Nord and the grades more attainable for most. All the routes have some fixed gear, especially on the belays, and a couple are nearly fully bolted. Whatever route you are doing, a rack of gear is essential to plug the gaps between the bolts - take plenty of wires, cams and slings. Two 60m ropes are needed for the abseil descents. In most cases the belays are bolted except on a couple of the routes.

Approach notes

Go around the headland away from San Vito Lo Capo on the SP63 or the main bypass road around the town if coming from the south. Locate a dirt road for parking on the crag side of the bypass road, about 100m south of the junction with the SP63. Go along the gravel track for approximately 250m. Turn left into the field and walk up left of a pylon to the pinnacle.

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Climbs at this crag

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