Rockfax Description
A fully bolted multi-pitch climb which is the most popular on the pinnacle. A light rack of wires and slings comes in handy to plug any gaps and for the last pitch. Start by a long leftwards rising diagonal crack below the right-hand end of the large diagonal roof. The first bolt is at around 6m but is easy to reach.
1) 6a+, 30m. Climb past the crack to another crack leading to a belay below a bulge.
2) 6a+, 15m. Pull steeply up the crack above which leads to a sloping ledge on the left in a corner.
3) 6b, 35m. A great pitch. Climb direct then move up and right to a smooth groove leave this rightwards and up to a belay.
4) 5c, 45m. A long connecting pitch leading up and left past some ledges to a hanging stance.
5) 5b, 15m. Climb left then up to a nice belay in a small cave.
6) 6b, 40m. Pull up and then follow steep crozzly rock in an exposed position.
7) 4b, 20m. Move right onto the crest and follow this to the shoulder. Trad gear needed.
8) 40m. Walk along the ridge easily to the steep last wall. Easy ground leads up a groove on the left side of this.
Descent - Walk along the summit towards the notch between the pinnacle and the big wall opposite. Drop down right and locate a good ledge with a solid anchor. Make one 20m abseil to the mini-notch by the smaller pinnacle. Make a long 35m abseil from here to the ground (30m will get you to easy ground but take care). Walk rightwards facing away from the pinnacle and descend rough scree back to the base. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Well bolted, except for the last pitch (4b).

F Calabrese, L Cutietta, M Oviglia, E Pinotti 18/Mar/2002.

Ticklists

San Vito Lo Capo Multi-Pitch , ROCKFAX - San Vito Lo Capo (6b to 7b+) , ROCKFAX: Sicily 2021 - Graded List

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