Rockfax Description
This route is bolted for four pitches but then appears to go fully trad. The climb runs parallel to Parole al Vento.
1) 6a, 40m, 2) 6a, 40m, 3) 5c, 35m, 4) 5c, 30m.
At this point the route heads right around the roof into a gully where trad gear is needed. Pitches and grades unknown from here upwards.
Descent - Abseil down the back side of Pizzo Monaco. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This route is marked here and in the guide as fully bolted. That is not true. After 5 pitches it stops in the mentioned gully with no hint where to go on. Without proper (!) trad equipment there is no way to be continued.
Else: first pitch 40m 6a
Second pitch 40m 6a
Third pitch 25-30m 5b/c
Fourth pitch 15m 5b
Fith pitch 15m 5c
(guess you can skip the 4th, it's from the old equipment but in good condition)
Abseiling through the route after the traverse is not easy. We repelled to the 3rd belay, then 15m down to the step/overhang and from there over the bolt and fixed gear to the Base. (That requires 2x 80m rope with 2x 60m you should arrive at the first belay. The 2nd is almost impossible to get to while Abseiling)
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