170m, 5 pitches.
The south spur of Point André
P1 20m 4a
P2 40m 4c
P3 15m 3b (keeping to left, belay point is on a large boulder)
P4 35m 4c
P5 45m 5a to belay point and then carry on up to summit cairn (either via tricky but fun move direct above belay point or scoot round to the right to join summit more easily).
Bolted belays except after P2 - sling a block to the right of the spur.
Bring trad rack. 1 or 2 bolts on each pitch except P3. Works fine on 50m single.
Descent: from summit cairn, downclimb east side (i.e. in direction of breche André), keeping to the left of a rocky shoulder/arete then dropping down towards the distinct pointy needle to find an abseil chain just before it. Two abseils of 15m (again abseil chain) down to the breche. Then a final 15m abseil from chain on the left looking down the descent couloir. Then descend couloir, turning right at its base to rejoin the crag base and approach path.
See also www.camptocamp.org for route description.
P1 20m 4a
P2 40m 4c
P3 15m 3b (keeping to left, belay point is on a large boulder)
P4 35m 4c
P5 45m 5a to belay point and then carry on up to summit cairn (either via tricky but fun move direct above belay point or scoot round to the right to join summit more easily).
Bolted belays except after P2 - sling a block to the right of the spur.
Bring trad rack. 1 or 2 bolts on each pitch except P3. Works fine on 50m single.
Descent: from summit cairn, downclimb east side (i.e. in direction of breche André), keeping to the left of a rocky shoulder/arete then dropping down towards the distinct pointy needle to find an abseil chain just before it. Two abseils of 15m (again abseil chain) down to the breche. Then a final 15m abseil from chain on the left looking down the descent couloir. Then descend couloir, turning right at its base to rejoin the crag base and approach path.
See also www.camptocamp.org for route description.
Lippmann, Demenge & Vernet 31/Mar/1957.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| gooberman-hill | 17 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is an abseil starion at the shoulder 40m to a hanging stance (2 bolts and a ring linked by tat), then 50m to the ledge. Can scramble or abseil down the final section (found one bolts and a maglione above final step). Watch for jamming ropes on 1st abseil. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There is an abseil starion at the shoulder 40m to a hanging stance (2 bolts and a ring linked by tat), then 50m to the ledge. Can scramble or abseil down the final section (found one bolts and a maglione above final step). Watch for jamming ropes on 1st abseil. |
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Route of Interest
Traversée des aiguilles du Lac Nègre
Grade: D- ***
(Cayre de prefouns)