A series of 9 pinnacles, of which the first is usually bypassed and the 6th is the highest.
Mostly about III, the crux is ascending the 3rd pinnacle and is IV (though may seem harder).
Descend from the final col, the guidebook talks about glaciers on both sides but these have now retreated well above the route. Given AD in some guides and D+, -V in Seb Constant guide.
Mostly about III, the crux is ascending the 3rd pinnacle and is IV (though may seem harder).
Descend from the final col, the guidebook talks about glaciers on both sides but these have now retreated well above the route. Given AD in some guides and D+, -V in Seb Constant guide.
A. Aulois and Jean Vernet 02/Jul/1936.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Rettiw | 16 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Seb Constant guidebook has grade as D+, IV- rock. I've no idea about Alpine grades, but the crux pitch felt VS, whilst most climbing felt Diff and it feels a long day with a valley start. We took 0.3 to 2, 9 nuts, 6 slingdraws, slings, a pair of rock shoes for the crux, a pair of crampons and an axe. We used almost everything. At approach to 3rd tower, a few tricky moves up a crack gain a large pinnacle belay; from there, choose the lefthand groove with two pegs near start, which takes you to the roof and 2 insitu pegs. Very loose rock traversing from tower 3 to the easier ledge system: an exposed traverse on the left allows you to downclimb a little below and left of the crest, but everything creaks so think light thoughts. Descent down "scree" slope to reach snowy gully is a bit awful; we abseiled the majority, off dodgy-looking blocks, as nothing at all is solid. Crux of the day is the Glacier Blanc Hut, where guardian was arrogant, angry and atmosphere was poor. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Seb Constant guidebook has grade as D+, IV- rock. I've no idea about Alpine grades, but the crux pitch felt VS, whilst most climbing felt Diff and it feels a long day with a valley start. We took 0.3 to 2, 9 nuts, 6 slingdraws, slings, a pair of rock shoes for the crux, a pair of crampons and an axe. We used almost everything. At approach to 3rd tower, a few tricky moves up a crack gain a large pinnacle belay; from there, choose the lefthand groove with two pegs near start, which takes you to the roof and 2 insitu pegs. Very loose rock traversing from tower 3 to the easier ledge system: an exposed traverse on the left allows you to downclimb a little below and left of the crest, but everything creaks so think light thoughts. Descent down "scree" slope to reach snowy gully is a bit awful; we abseiled the majority, off dodgy-looking blocks, as nothing at all is solid. Crux of the day is the Glacier Blanc Hut, where guardian was arrogant, angry and atmosphere was poor. |
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| nigel pearson | 3 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: great route. need to bring light trad rack as very little fixed gear (found 2 pitons and one random bolt on whole route). abseil tat with rings on 4th 5th and 6th pinnacle. climbing up to diff/vdiff level with some suspect rock. character building!! descent on 45 degrees loose mud, pebbles and rocks even after 3 abseils. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: great route. need to bring light trad rack as very little fixed gear (found 2 pitons and one random bolt on whole route). abseil tat with rings on 4th 5th and 6th pinnacle. climbing up to diff/vdiff level with some suspect rock. character building!! descent on 45 degrees loose mud, pebbles and rocks even after 3 abseils. |
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| GGD | 20 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Poor rock quality and in situ gear, despite what Cambron guidebook suggests. Line is hard to follow in places, but imagine you could do it a few different ways without changing grade too much. Wouldn’t suggest travelling to Ecrins for this, but if you’re in the area.... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Poor rock quality and in situ gear, despite what Cambron guidebook suggests. Line is hard to follow in places, but imagine you could do it a few different ways without changing grade too much. Wouldn’t suggest travelling to Ecrins for this, but if you’re in the area.... |
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Route of Interest
Soleil Trompeur
Grade: D ***
(Sagnette)