150m, 4 pitches.
The Gapencois (variante Chaud) starts on the east side of the ridge and climb to the first pointe in 4 pitches. The first one is a scramble then the following 3 are good pitches on solid rock. At the end of the scramble, climb the corner for a few meters then traverse up left a ledge then come back to the corner to continue the route more or less following the corner or an arete on the left. These 3 pitches together are about 150m long and there are good place to set up belays, some with pitons. On top, go through the notch and right around the first pointe before abseiling 10 meters between the pointe 1 and 2
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Route of Interest
Pilier Paquet
Grade: D- ***
(Le Rateau)