UKC

95m, 2 pitches. Ab from top Bearnas buttress - a 100m ab rope is not long enough. from the cairns walk down to large boulder on grassy ledge, from in situ sling do a 10m ab down grass to next ledge; use the small rounded flake on this for a 90-95m ab to a grassy ledge underneath roof. in situ nuts/peg in crack leading up to LHS roof
P1: 48m up to roof and traverse underneath to break on right; all on surprisingly good handholds/gear; once up contend with a tenuous flake and delicate moves up to get to a desperate move (crux) across to a series of quartz knobbles. shortly after they open up to a respectable crack which leads to a sloping rock ledge above and right of a large grass one; nut belay in crack
P2: 45m Up to overhanging wall; protectable boulder moves for 1-2m using eventually thin finger seam to L and knobbles high on R before climbing eases to reasonable holds and gear; look for hidden flake to L of overhang ca 20m up; prob wet near top

Calvin Torrans, Claire Sheridan 2015.

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Route of Interest
A Race Against Time

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Owey Island)

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