UKC

30m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

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User Date Notes
Tony-S 24 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The tied-down skyhook placement on the L shaped hold is totally fine. Other tied-down skyhook placements may also be available nearby. In 2016, pegs were replaced (after a peg hiatus) in the thin (blind) horizontal break. They were subsequently removed, but 3 new pegs sprouted soon after. These pegs all still seem good. The route was originally graded E5 with a peg and was subsequently graded E6 (for a peg-free ascent) by the first peg-free ascensionist. Personally, I don’t think the peg(s) add/takeaway much grade-wise (easy for me to say…) so I’m not sure it really needed to be replaced (with 3?!). I think E6 6a might be a more informative grade for an onsight ascent. The starring is a bit silly: whilst the climbing is very good, the route is an eliminate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The tied-down skyhook placement on the L shaped hold is totally fine. Other tied-down skyhook placements may also be available nearby. In 2016, pegs were replaced (after a peg hiatus) in the thin (blind) horizontal break. They were subsequently removed, but 3 new pegs sprouted soon after. These pegs all still seem good. The route was originally graded E5 with a peg and was subsequently graded E6 (for a peg-free ascent) by the first peg-free ascensionist. Personally, I don’t think the peg(s) add/takeaway much grade-wise (easy for me to say…) so I’m not sure it really needed to be replaced (with 3?!). I think E6 6a might be a more informative grade for an onsight ascent. The starring is a bit silly: whilst the climbing is very good, the route is an eliminate.
Dr Toph 3 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Skyhook placement looks like it may have snapped off. Might still be usable?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Skyhook placement looks like it may have snapped off. Might still be usable?

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 3
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dead Calm

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Lochan Dubh Crag)

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