Rockfax Description
45m. Bold open wall climbing. The front face of the buttress starts with a vegetated section, the original start to Vampire. Down and right of this is an open left-facing groove; start here.
1. 25m 5b Go up a steep initial groove past an overlap, then move steeply out right on good holds. Move up, then pull leftwards along a diagonal crack to belay on a ledge.
2. 20m 5a Climb the groove above, turning the roof on the right.
FA E.Grindley, I.Nicholson (FFA), 19 Apr 1978 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Up from the peg, moving steadily on big slopers on the steep wall.
Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , 3 and 4 star E2 5b routes in Scotland , Highland Outcrops South *** , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Creag Dubh (Newtonmore))