Rockfax Description
50m. A bold exposed line up the left edge of the slabby face. Start at the left side of the front face, below the corner of the Direct.
1. 20m 4c Move left across the steep slab to cross the overlap near the left edge, then go up this to the first ledge system.
2. 30m 5a Follow the thin and exposed left edge of the slab to the second ledge (possible belay). Cross the gap and finish up easier slabs.
FA K.Schwartz, J.Mount (pitch 1), 19 May 1973
FA A.Fulton, K.Schwartz (pitch 2), 28 Jul 1969 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Very exciting slab climbing that could give HVS leaders nightmares and cold sweats, starting on a comfy "spectators ridge" on the frontal slab. P1 4c - Excellent teetering above the void with reasonable climbing and instant exposure leads to the easier rib and belay in the break. P2 5a - Place all your cams in the sharp flake and use it to pull on to the slab. Smear and balance up this - crux, serious fall potential - to a good hold and much easier climbing up and onto the next slab to finish.
Best slab climbs of the UK , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Highland Outcrops South *** , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Antony wood | 20 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: ice in the morning sunny rock in the afternoon. very nice | βeta? | |
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βeta: ice in the morning sunny rock in the afternoon. very nice |
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Hannah Moulton | 30 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Incredible route. Ground fall potential on crux. E1? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Incredible route. Ground fall potential on crux. E1? |
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Rhys Deane | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Great route gets the grade for being bold! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route gets the grade for being bold! |
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SOUTHERN GRAY | 11 May, 2019 |
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βeta: I lead both pitches :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: I lead both pitches :) |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boathouse Crag)