UKC

190m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent, fully bolted route, giving sustained, fingery climbing on perfect rock. Start beneath the line of new bolts up a nondescript wall in the next bay to the left of Valencianos.
1) 6a, 45m. Follow the bolts up the wall to a good ledge.
2) 6a+, 20m. Climb the concave wall and make a tough move around the bulge. A tricky pitch.
3) 6b+, 40m. The wall above has a fingery start and a desperate second clip. Things then ease considerably and enjoyable climbing leads to a stance in a break.
4) 6b+, 40m. Traverse left, then steeply past some holes to pull out at the base of a smooth slab. Thin climbing weaves around the bolts before easier ground and a shallow groove reach a calcite stance with an assortment of belays.
5) 6c+, 30m. Traverse left to a steep crack line. Follow this and make a desperate and blind pull onto the wall above. Move out right to easier ground, before another fingery shield - fortunately easier than it looks - gains easy ground and a belay.
Descent - Abseil down a new set of abseil stations off-line to the left of the route (facing in). © Rockfax

FA. Chiri Ros, Isabel Pagan, Manuel Amat Castill 1991/92.

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Gillott 2 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A great route, with good climbing throughout--better perhaps than the nearby Gorilas. The final pitch, as the grade indicates, is qualitatively harder than the rest, requiring, in our case, a little figuring out from the comfort of a bolt! The description of the abseils is a little confusing in the guide. As Neil indicates, the first abseil station is in fact the final belay. The second set of abseil bolts are immediately below the bottom of the steep crack on the final pitch, after which they run vertically down the face.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route, with good climbing throughout--better perhaps than the nearby Gorilas. The final pitch, as the grade indicates, is qualitatively harder than the rest, requiring, in our case, a little figuring out from the comfort of a bolt! The description of the abseils is a little confusing in the guide. As Neil indicates, the first abseil station is in fact the final belay. The second set of abseil bolts are immediately below the bottom of the steep crack on the final pitch, after which they run vertically down the face.
Neil Foster 17 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The route is quite diagonal, John. There is a line of belays off route to the left (looking in) which run in a fairly straight line down from the finish. I didn't realise they were there, and had already committed to abbing the line itself. Straight down would have required fewer abs. But, to answer your question, I doubt either way would be possible on a single 70m. Neil
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route is quite diagonal, John. There is a line of belays off route to the left (looking in) which run in a fairly straight line down from the finish. I didn't realise they were there, and had already committed to abbing the line itself. Straight down would have required fewer abs. But, to answer your question, I doubt either way would be possible on a single 70m. Neil
John Gillott 16 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Does anyone know how far apart the abseil stations are? I'm wondering whether I can get down using a single 70m rope.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Does anyone know how far apart the abseil stations are? I'm wondering whether I can get down using a single 70m rope.

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Guidebooks for Ponoch

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mamtastic

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Sella)

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