Climbs 43
Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 264m a.s.l
Faces SE
A gear placing lesson © omerta
Crag features
Set in the idyllic Shropshire hills and providing a concentration of lower grade climbs.There are both multi-pitch routes of up to 60m and single pitches of 15m.
Nice little crag with excellent views. Routes are long enough to be interesting and the rock felt secure even in the middle of January. Descent from routes is either a long walk-around or down a steep muddy gully; either way, take a change of footwear unless you like tobogganing down slopes at speed.
Approach notes
As you enter the village of Pontesford on the A488, look for a tractor Emporium on your left and immediately afterwards a small side road with a sign for the Earls Hill Nature Reserve.
Follow the single track road up to a car park on top of a small crest signed Earls Hill Nature Reserve (previously there was room for about 7 cars but was extended in early 2017, and will now accommodate ~20).
After parking follow the left-hand path from the car park end (not the steps through the woods or the main path that climbs through the woods). Walk for 10-15 minutes on that path and through woods then fields and after you go through a third gate take an obvious path that heads off up to the right from the main path towards a steep scree slope and the crag. Immediately after the third gate is a sign/notice board about the area, including signs about the bird ban.
Access Advice
The crag is within Earls Hill Nature Reserve which is managed by Shropshire Wildlife Trust. The Trust have a positive view of climbing here providing that people are sensitive to the ecological interests of the site. In particular the scree slopes should be treated with care. No camping and no fires, please.
The 'Fifty Foot Wall' routes were cleaned up and extensively restored in early 2013, with the intention of giving climbers an alternative area if (as often happens) Peregrines choose to nest on the main crag. Feel free to go try these - you might actually like them...
In late 2013, the Wildlife Trust undertook some further vegetation clearance work, mainly of invasive trees on the scree slopes, but also of scrub on the rocks. The intent was to improve the cliff environment from the climbers' point of view, as it will allow more light and air to dry the rocks better.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 16 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines normally nest at Pontesford Rocks each year, with the nest site changing from year to year.
In 2020, we have attempted to find a way to permit the use of some routes whilst closing others, but a number of incidents have occurred which have meant this is not really workable.
Update mid July 2020 The birds have now (16th July) successfully fledged two chicks, and no longer need to use the 'scrape'/nest site.
All routes at the crag can now be considered open, and the site signage is being removed as soon as it can be.
The Shropshire Wildlife Trust, The Shropshire Peregrine Group and the BMC would like to thank all climbers who have avoided the rocks during the 2020 nesting season.
Rockfax Digital
Available on Rockfax Digital
Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.
Guidebooks
|
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Alex Thompson