Rockfax Description
An interesting route, broken into two pitches to avoid rope drag. Start down in a cave on the left.
1) 4a, 15m. Exit the cave via a ledge which is gained from the left and exited on the right. Once you pop out, scramble up to the start of the steep rock to belay.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb steeply up the pocketed wall past the short but punchy crux. Move right to a wall above the cave and finish up the easy groove with care. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A contrived but highly entertaining route. A novel first pitch is followed by a short hard crux, at the top of the grade, on the second. Start by descending to the back of the small zawn.
1) 12m, 4a. Climb onto an overhanging shelf in the lower cave (easier on left). Cross the shelf to the right, avoiding neolithic burial remains (just kidding). Exit via a thru-cave in the roof and be reborn onto the crag face. Continue up easily to ledges below the large upper cave.
2) 23m, 5a. Climb the steep, rough, pocketed wall between the cave and the left bounding ridge (crux). Move up and right over the lip of the cave and ascend the easy shallow gully above to the top, taking care with the rock.
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Grade: VS 4a ***
(Three Cliffs Bay)