UKC

Restricted Access

Parking is at the beach end near some public toilets. Between South Stack and Trearddur Bay. Coastal paths lead in both directions for access. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are nesting choughs near “The Hanging Basket of Babylon” to “The Blue Horse”. Please avoid all of these routes during nesting seasons. 

 

Historically Yellow Brick Road has also been restricted, however this chough pair has moved. 

22m.

Rockfax Description
A great route that makes a high level left-to-right traverse of this steep wall and starts and finishes at the top of the crag. From a belay on the central fin, descend a groove to a good ledge. Traverse easily rightwards to a wall which gets harder until you are forced to down climb through some juggy terrain and gain a rest in a niche. It is possible to finish direct from here but far better to carry on in the same line past a peg to gain the base of a prominent groove which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

G Sutton, M Hellewell 2014.

Feedback

User Date Notes
ash_sak 20 Apr Show βeta
βeta: A good route if you can find the solid rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route if you can find the solid rock.
RM199 8 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some snappy holds on this
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some snappy holds on this

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Porth Dafarch

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 4
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Emulator

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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