UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Granite
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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First ascent: Son of Satan (E8 6c) © M. Edwards

Crag features

Close to the charming fishing cove of Porthgwarra is a collection of cliffs that, although not of the same quality as nearby Chair Ladder, are well worth tracking down. There are some excellent easier multi-pitch lines on offer at Porthgwarra Buttress and Hella Point. The cliffs are in beautiful surroundings and are convenient for a bit of post climbing relaxation on the beach.

Approach notes

From the car park at Porthgwarra, walk back towards the cove and turn right onto the coast path. Follow the coast path, always taking the left turn until the pinnacle of Hella Point comes into view on the first headland (5 mins). Gear up here.

Both cliffs are tidal, the bases only being accessible for around 3 hours either side of low water in calm sea conditions. However, the bases of the cliffs become wave-washed in moderate seas.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 26 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restiction applies to all routes on Panda Buttress for nesting choughs
Nesting restrictions appear to now apply to Porthgwarra Buttress too, so best to check BMC RAD for updates and avoid climbing until end of stated period. There is new signage on path from cove.
GuyC - 31/May/21
Helluva Slab is well worth a visit, lovely situation and good climbing. Once you;ve lost the tide at chair ladder take the five minutes walk to go do it.
James Richardson - 24/Sep/02
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